Simple Slippers

 

Spring just can’t seem to quite make it here this year.  We had a few teaser days and then straight back to cold.  Maybe soon, but until then, here is a simple slipper pattern to keep your feet warm.

I didn’t try to color pool the yarn when I made these, but it did kind of happen.

I am the queen of cold feet, I can have ice cold feet in the middle of summer, so I am loving these!

Supplies
1 skein Loops & Threads Impeccable (3.5 oz./192 yds.) I used Seaside Ombre. (You should have a bit left over.)
H/5 mm hook

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Double Crochet (dc)
Double Crochet 2 Together (dc2tog)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)

In round 1-13, ch 2 does not count as a stitch. In rows 14-20, ch 2 does count as a stitch.

Ch 3
R1) In first ch made, dc 10. Join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 2.
R2) 2 Dc in each stitch around. (20 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 2.
R3) Dc in first stitch, 2 dc in next stitch. [dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch] Repeat [ ] around. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 2. (30 stitches)
R4-13) Dc in each stitch around, Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 2.
R14-19) Dc in second stitch and next 18 stitches. (20 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R20) Dc in second stitch and next 6 stitches. Dc2tog in next 4 stitches. (2 dc2tog worked) Dc in remaining 8 stitches. Finish off, leaving a long tail.
With large needle and using the long tail of yarn, stitch up the back seam of the slipper.

The cuff- Ch 2 does not count as a stitch on the cuff.
R1) At back of slipper, join yarn with sl st, ch 2. Work 2 dc into the side of each dc, and 1 dc into each dc around. (34 stitches) Join with sl st to top of beginning st. Ch 2.
R2) Work alternating fpdc and bpdc around. (17 fpdc and 17 bpdc) Join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 2.
R3) Repeat row 2, working fpdc in previous fpdc and bpdc in previous bpdc. Join with sl st to beginning st. Finish off, weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Herringbone Half Double Sweater for Barbie

 

(Originally published Feb 1, 2018)  Valentines day is coming and in honor of that, I have a few sweater patterns coming for Barbie. This one worked up in pink would make a lovely Valentine’s sweater but of course, you could always choose to make it in another color as well. I also worked one up in a blue variegated sock yarn.

I love the texture this stitch gives to these tiny sweaters!

Stitches used-

Slip Stitch (sl st)
Chain (ch)
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet Together (sc tog) Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all remaining loops on hook.
Herringbone Half Double (hhdc)- Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. 3 loops on hook. Pull first loop through second loop on hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook. *Ch 2 does count as a hhdc*
Herringbone Half Double Together (hhdc tog) Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Pull first loop through second loop on hook. Yarn over and insert into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Pull first loop through second loop on hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining loops on hook.

Yarn-  #1/superfine/fingering/sock yarn
Hook- 0/3.25 mm
Small button or bead
Needle to weave in ends

Making the bottom rib-work sc in back loops only
Ch 4
Sc in second chain from hook and remaining two chains. Ch 1, turn.
Sc in each stitch across (3 stitches), ch 1, turn. Repeat for a total of 34 rows. At end of last row, ch 1, turn, bring short ends of bottom rib together, join with sl st across.
Rib should measure 5 1/4 inches un-stretched.

Turn piece so that you will be working into ends of rib rows.
R1) Ch 2, hhdc 33 stitches evenly around, (34 stitches total)join with sl st to beginning ch. ch 2, TURN.
R2) Hhdc in each stitch around (do not hhdc into joining sl st on previous row.) (34 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R3-9) Repeat row 2.
R10) Hhdc 5, ch 8, skip next 4 stitches, hhdc in next 14 stitches, ch 8, skip next 4 stitches, hhdc in last 6 stitches. Ch 2, turn. dO NOT JOIN WITH SL ST.
R11) Hhdc in each stitch and chain around. (42 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R12) Hhdc in next stitch, hhdc tog in next two stitches. *Hhdc in next 5 stitches, hhdc tog in next two stitches.* Repeat around, ending with 3 hhdc. (36 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R13) Hhdc in next stitch, hhdc tog in next two stitches, *hhdc in next 3 stitches, hhdc tog in next two stitches* repeat around, ending with 2 hhdc. (29 stitches) Ch 1, turn.
R14) Sc in first two stitches, sc tog twice, sc 4, sc tog twice, sc, sc tog twice, sc 4, sc tog twice, sc 2. When this row is worked, the outside of the sweater should be facing you. If the inside of the sweater is facing, turn sweater inside out before continuing.

Finishing the back opening- turn work and sc 9/10 stitches evenly down one side of back opening, then sc 9/10 stitches evenly up other side of back opening. Ch 4 to 5, then sl st ch to stitch below the top. Finish off.  Attach button at back neck opening.

Sleeves
Right sleeve
R1) Working on right side (outside) of sweater, on right armhole, in bottom 4 stitches skipped earlier, in second stitch from back, join with sl st, ch 2, then work 15 more hhdc evenly around armhole, join with sl st to beginning ch. (16 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R2) Hhdc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning ch. Ch 2, turn.
R3) Hhdc in each stitch around until last 2 stitches, hhdc tog in last two stitches. Join with sl st to beginning chain. (15 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Repeat row 3. (14 stitches)
R6) Repeat row 2.
R7) Repeat row 3. (13 stitches)
R8) Repeat row 2.
R9) Repeat row 3. (12 stitches)
R10) Repeat row 2.
R11) Repeat row 3. (11 stitches)
R12) Repeat row 2.
R13) Repeat row 3. (10 stitches)
R14) Repeat row 2.
R15) Repeat row 2. ch 1, do not turn.
R16) Work sc in each stitch around. (10 sc). Join with sl st to beginning st, finish off.

Left sleeve
R1) Working on right side (outside) of sweater, on left armhole, in bottom 4 stitches skipped earlier, in second stitch from front, join with sl st, ch 2, then work 15 more hhdc evenly around armhole, join with sl st to beginning ch. (16 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R2) Hhdc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning ch. Ch 2, turn.
R3) Hhdc tog in first two stitches, then hhdc in each remaining stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning ch. (15 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R4) Repeat row 2.
R5) Repeat row 3. (14 stitches)
R6) Repeat row 2.
R7) Repeat row 3. (13 stitches)
R8) Repeat row 2.
R9) Repeat row 3. (12 stitches)
R10) Repeat row 2.
R11) Repeat row 3. (11 stitches)
R12) Repeat row 2.
R13) Repeat row 3. (10 stitches)
R14) Repeat row 2.
R15) Repeat row 2. ch 1, do not turn.
R16) Work sc in each stitch around. (10 sc). Join with sl st to beginning st, finish off.

Sleeve directions are given for right handed crocheters. If you are left handed, work left sleeve using right sleeve instructions and work right sleeve using left sleeve instructions.

Weave in all ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Polish Star Pillow

 

I had intended to save this pattern until it was closer to spring, but we have had warm weather the last two days and we actually heard peep frogs this evening!  So now I have spring fever and decided to go ahead and share this.  Of course, it’s calling for snow again tomorrow but oh well.

I ran across this stitch and had to try it since it combines two things that I love doing- crocheting and weaving!  The only instructions that I could find were in Polish. Sadly, I cannot read that and Google Translate never knows how to translate crochet instructions.  (Although some of it’s attempts to do so can be pretty funny!)  There was also a picture and a graph of sorts.  I messed around with it, figured it out, and hopefully my instructions will make the whole process simple for everyone.

One thing I will mention is that I found it easier to weave the loops as I went.  It is up to you whether you want to wait and weave them all at the end or weave as you go.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)

You will need:

7 oz. Worsted Weight Yarn-turquoise (color A)
7 oz. Worsted Weight Yarn- pink (color B)
or (2) 7 oz. skeins of worsted weight yarn in colors of your choice
J/6mm hook
18″ pillow form
Needle to weave in ends

I worked two rows across the same way (one row of each color), then carried my yarn up the side and worked two rows (one of each color) across the opposite way. You don’t have to work it this way, but it will save a lot of weaving in ends and the carried yarn will be hidden in the border.

Pillow Front
With Color A, Fdc 60. This should measure 17″.
R1) Ch 3, dc in second stitch and next two stitches. [Ch 10, dc in next 4 stitches.] Repeat between []’s across.
R2) Join color B. Ch 3, dc in second stitch and next stitch. [Skip next stitch, ch 10. Dc 2 in next stitch, dc in next two stitches, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next two stitches.] Repeat between []’s. Dc in last stitch.
R3) With color A, ch 3, dc in second stitch, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches, skip next stitch. [Ch 10, dc 2 in next two stitches. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches, skip next stitch.] Repeat between []’s across. Ch 10, dc 2 in next stitch, dc in each of last two stitches.
R4) Color B, ch 3, dc in second stitch, dc in next stitch, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, skip next stitch. [Ch 10. Dc 2 in next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, skip next stitch.] Repeat between []’s across. Ch 10, dc 2 in next stitch, dc in each of last 3.
R5) Color A, ch 3, dc in second stitch and next two stitches. [Skip next stitch, ch 10. Dc 2 in next 2 stitches. Ch 10, skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches.] Repeat between []’s across.
R6-9) Repeat rows 2-5.
R10-13) Repeat rows 2-5.
R14-17) Repeat rows 2-5.
R18-21) Repeat rows 2-5.
R22-25) Repeat rows 2-5.
R26-27) Repeat rows 2-3.
R28) Color B, ch 3, dc in second dc and each dc across. (60 stitches) Finish off. Weave all loops together before completing row 29, including loops from row 27.
R29) Color A, Ch 3, Dc in second stitch and next stitch. When working dc in next stitch, pass needle through top of loop from row 27, then complete dc as normal. Dc in each stitch across, catching corresponding loop from row 27 in every fourth stitch.
Border) Ch 3, turn. Dc in second stitch and each stitch across. Work 2 dc at corner, then dc 2 into every stitch down the side. Work 2 dc in corner, then dc in each stitch across. Work 2 dc at corner, then dc 2 into every stitch up other side. Work 2 dc in corner, join with sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.

Weaving the loops together
*This graph should explain why I have never been, am not now, nor will I ever claim to be, an artist, lol. There are some amazing artists in my family but I am NOT one of them!
Hopefully though, even though it lacks in artistic value, it will still help to make sense of the weaving process. Black ink represents the turquoise and red ink represents the pink. I did not show the fdc row on this graph.

And since I couldn’t figure out any way to get a full graph of the pillow to fit one photo and still be clear we are going to work off of a smaller graph.  The principle will still be the same, you will just have more repeats across than what we will be showing.

Ok, let’s start weaving.   When working a row, you will be working the loops of that row and the loops of the previous row.

 

R1)  Skip loop A.  Pull loop C through loop B.  Pull loop E through loop D.  Skip loop F.

R2)  Give loop A  a twist, then pull loop G through loop A.  Pull loop H through loop C.  Pull loop I through loop B.  Pull loop J through loop E.  Pull loop K through loop D.  Pull loop L through loop F.

Picture shows the twist.

R3)  Pull loop A through loop G.  Pull loop B through loop H.  Pull loop C through loop I.  Pull loop D through loop J. Pull loop E through loop K.  Pull loop F through loop L.  Still working on row 3, go back and pull loop B through loop A.  Pull loop D through loop C.  Pull loop F through loop E.

R4)  Pull loop G through loop B.  Pull loop H through loop A.  Pull loop I through loop D.  Pull loop J through loop C.  Pull loop K through loop F.  Pull loop L through loop E.

 

R5)  Pull loop A through loop G.  Pull loop B through H.  Pull loop C through loop I.  Pull loop D through loop J.  Pull loop E through loop K.  Pull loop F through loop L.   Still working on row 5, go back and pull loops through each other as directed in row 1.

The pattern will now repeat itself, although it will not be necessary to continue to twist the beginning and ending loops on row 2. (The twist just helped to hold the stitching together on the first row since those loops did not loop into anything else.)

Pillow back

R1) With color A, ch 3, work 15 dc into first ch made. Sl st to top of beginning chain.
R2) Ch 2. In same stitch work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. [Dc in next 3 stitches. In next stitch work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat [] 2 more times. Dc in last 3 stitches, join with sl st to beginning ch.
R3) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 7 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 5 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R4) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 11 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 7 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R5) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 15 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 15 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R6) Ch 2, dc in next space. [In chain 1 corner, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 19 stitches.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 17 stitches, sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.
R7) Join Color A in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 23 stitches. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 23 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R8) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 27 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 25 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R9) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 31 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 27 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R10) Ch 2, dc in next 5 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 35 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 29 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R11) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 39 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 39 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R12) Ch 2, dc in next space. [In chain 1 corner, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 43 stitches.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 41 stitches, sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.
R13) Join Color A in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 47 stitches. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 47 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R14) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 51 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 49 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R15) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 55 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 51 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R16) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 59 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 59 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Do not finish off.

Weave in all remaining ends on pillow back and front. Place pillow top and bottom together, wrong side facing each other. (Right side out.) Ch 1, then sc evenly around with color B, working through the stitches on both the pillow back and front. Once you have worked around 3 sides, insert the pillow form and stitch together the last side. Ch 1, turn. Sc in first stitch. [Skip next stitch, 5 dc in next stitch. Skip next stitch, sc in next stitch.] Repeat around, ending with 5 dc and a skippped stitch, then join with a sl st to beginning sc. Finish off and weave in remaining end. Your pillow is done!

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

The Crossover Hat

 

With a few 70 degree days already under our belt, winter feels like it is quickly drawing to an end.  But I suspect that there are still some cold days ahead of us yet where we are all going to need a warm hat.  The Crossover Hat is so named for two reasons.  One, because it will fit both men and women, and two, because the stitches in this hat cross over.

You can see the details of the stitch better with the two colors.

I personally like a hat that is a bit roomier (I seem to have slippery hair that makes hats slide off), but if you want it to be a bit more fitted for a lady, just go down a hook size or two and you should be fine.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)
Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

 
You will need:
Worsted Weight Yarn (I used partial skeins of yarn such as Red Heart, so perhaps 3-4 oz.)
J/6mm hook
Fur pom pom (optional)

Fdc 70, join. This should measure 21″ un-stretched, before joining.
*Tip. When joining fdc, on the last stitch, start stitch as normal, but after making the chain one, insert hook into base of beginning stitch and join with a slip stitch. Then continue working the rest of the fdc as normal, and then sl st to the top of stitch. This joins the stitches at the base and the top with a seamless look.

R1-3) Ch 2, work fpdc, then bpdc. Continue to alternate fpdc and bpdc around, ending with a bpdc. Join with sl st to beginning stitch. (Starting chain does not count as a stitch, here or after.)
R4) Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R5) Repeat round 4.
R6) Ch 2, skip first stitch, dc in next. Go behind just worked dc and work a dc in the skipped stitch. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R7) Repeat round 4.
R8) Repeat round 6.
R9) Ch 2, [dc in first 5 stitches, work 1 dc2tog in the 6’th and 7’th stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (60 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R10) Ch 2, [dc in first 4 stitches, work 1 dc2tog in the 5’th and 6’th stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (50 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R11) Ch 2, work crossed stitches as per round 6, but skip a stitch between every two sets of crossed stitches. (40 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R12) Ch 2, [dc in first 2 stitches, work 1 dc2tog in the 3’rd and 4’th stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (30 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R13) Ch 2, [dc in first stitch, work 1 dc2tog in the 2’nd and 3’rd stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (20 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R14) Ch 2, dc2tog around, join with sl st to beginning stitch.
Finish off, leaving a long tail. With a needle, stitch around, pull up tight. Pull yarn to inside and tie off. Weave in ends and add a pom pom if desired.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Cake Dots Scarf

 

An updated pattern using a Caron Cake.

Supplies:
(1) 7.1 oz. Caron Cake, worsted weight
Hook: H/8 5.00mm

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Double Crochet Together (dctog)

Ch 34.

R1) 1 dc in 5’th ch, ch 1 and dc in same ch. [Skip 2 ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch.] Repeat between [ ] to end of row, skip 1 ch and and dc in last ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R2) Dc, ch 1, dc in each ch 1 space, ending row with 1 dc in turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R3) Repeat R2, ending with ch 1 and turn.
R4) Sc in each dc and ch 1 space. Ch 3 and turn.
R5) Skip first 3 sc, 5 dc in next sc. [Skip 4 sc, 5 dc in next sc.] Repeat between [ ] to end of row, ending with 1 dc in last sc, ch 5 and turn.
R6) Skip first dc. [Work 5 dctog in next 5 dc, ch 4.] Repeat between [ ] to last cluster, ch 2, 1 dc in turning ch, ch 1 and turn.
R7) Sc in first dc, 2 sc in ch 2. [Sc in 5 dctog, 4 sc in ch 4.] Repeat between [ ] to end of row, ending with 3 sc in turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R8) Dc, ch 1, dc in 3’rd sc, [skip 2 sc, dc, ch 1, dc in next sc], repeat between [ ] across, ending with skipping one sc and dc in last sc. Ch 3 and turn.
R9-10) Repeat row 8, ending row 10 with a ch 1 and turn.
To continue pattern, repeat rows 4-10. Continue repeating until yarn runs out, ending with row 7 and leaving enough yarn to work a row of slip stitch.
Slip stitch the two short ends together, finish off, and weave in ends.

 

The original scarf

(1) 7 oz. Red Heart
H/8  5.00mm hook

 

Work pattern as above, ending with row 10. Finish off, weave in ends.

 

 

The super-sized scarf

12 oz. worsted weight yarn (I used Caron One Pound)
N/9mm hook

 

Work pattern just like the instructions for the original scarf. Add fringe if desired.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.