Polish Star Pillow

 

I had intended to save this pattern until it was closer to spring, but we have had warm weather the last two days and we actually heard peep frogs this evening!  So now I have spring fever and decided to go ahead and share this.  Of course, it’s calling for snow again tomorrow but oh well.

I ran across this stitch and had to try it since it combines two things that I love doing- crocheting and weaving!  The only instructions that I could find were in Polish. Sadly, I cannot read that and Google Translate never knows how to translate crochet instructions.  (Although some of it’s attempts to do so can be pretty funny!)  There was also a picture and a graph of sorts.  I messed around with it, figured it out, and hopefully my instructions will make the whole process simple for everyone.

One thing I will mention is that I found it easier to weave the loops as I went.  It is up to you whether you want to wait and weave them all at the end or weave as you go.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)

You will need:

7 oz. Worsted Weight Yarn-turquoise (color A)
7 oz. Worsted Weight Yarn- pink (color B)
or (2) 7 oz. skeins of worsted weight yarn in colors of your choice
J/6mm hook
18″ pillow form
Needle to weave in ends

I worked two rows across the same way (one row of each color), then carried my yarn up the side and worked two rows (one of each color) across the opposite way. You don’t have to work it this way, but it will save a lot of weaving in ends and the carried yarn will be hidden in the border.

Pillow Front
With Color A, Fdc 60. This should measure 17″.
R1) Ch 3, dc in second stitch and next two stitches. [Ch 10, dc in next 4 stitches.] Repeat between []’s across.
R2) Join color B. Ch 3, dc in second stitch and next stitch. [Skip next stitch, ch 10. Dc 2 in next stitch, dc in next two stitches, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next two stitches.] Repeat between []’s. Dc in last stitch.
R3) With color A, ch 3, dc in second stitch, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches, skip next stitch. [Ch 10, dc 2 in next two stitches. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches, skip next stitch.] Repeat between []’s across. Ch 10, dc 2 in next stitch, dc in each of last two stitches.
R4) Color B, ch 3, dc in second stitch, dc in next stitch, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, skip next stitch. [Ch 10. Dc 2 in next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, dc 2 in next stitch. Ch 10. Skip next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, skip next stitch.] Repeat between []’s across. Ch 10, dc 2 in next stitch, dc in each of last 3.
R5) Color A, ch 3, dc in second stitch and next two stitches. [Skip next stitch, ch 10. Dc 2 in next 2 stitches. Ch 10, skip next stitch, dc in next 4 stitches.] Repeat between []’s across.
R6-9) Repeat rows 2-5.
R10-13) Repeat rows 2-5.
R14-17) Repeat rows 2-5.
R18-21) Repeat rows 2-5.
R22-25) Repeat rows 2-5.
R26-27) Repeat rows 2-3.
R28) Color B, ch 3, dc in second dc and each dc across. (60 stitches) Finish off. Weave all loops together before completing row 29, including loops from row 27.
R29) Color A, Ch 3, Dc in second stitch and next stitch. When working dc in next stitch, pass needle through top of loop from row 27, then complete dc as normal. Dc in each stitch across, catching corresponding loop from row 27 in every fourth stitch.
Border) Ch 3, turn. Dc in second stitch and each stitch across. Work 2 dc at corner, then dc 2 into every stitch down the side. Work 2 dc in corner, then dc in each stitch across. Work 2 dc at corner, then dc 2 into every stitch up other side. Work 2 dc in corner, join with sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.

Weaving the loops together
*This graph should explain why I have never been, am not now, nor will I ever claim to be, an artist, lol. There are some amazing artists in my family but I am NOT one of them!
Hopefully though, even though it lacks in artistic value, it will still help to make sense of the weaving process. Black ink represents the turquoise and red ink represents the pink. I did not show the fdc row on this graph.

And since I couldn’t figure out any way to get a full graph of the pillow to fit one photo and still be clear we are going to work off of a smaller graph.  The principle will still be the same, you will just have more repeats across than what we will be showing.

Ok, let’s start weaving.   When working a row, you will be working the loops of that row and the loops of the previous row.

 

R1)  Skip loop A.  Pull loop C through loop B.  Pull loop E through loop D.  Skip loop F.

R2)  Give loop A  a twist, then pull loop G through loop A.  Pull loop H through loop C.  Pull loop I through loop B.  Pull loop J through loop E.  Pull loop K through loop D.  Pull loop L through loop F.

Picture shows the twist.

R3)  Pull loop A through loop G.  Pull loop B through loop H.  Pull loop C through loop I.  Pull loop D through loop J. Pull loop E through loop K.  Pull loop F through loop L.  Still working on row 3, go back and pull loop B through loop A.  Pull loop D through loop C.  Pull loop F through loop E.

R4)  Pull loop G through loop B.  Pull loop H through loop A.  Pull loop I through loop D.  Pull loop J through loop C.  Pull loop K through loop F.  Pull loop L through loop E.

 

R5)  Pull loop A through loop G.  Pull loop B through H.  Pull loop C through loop I.  Pull loop D through loop J.  Pull loop E through loop K.  Pull loop F through loop L.   Still working on row 5, go back and pull loops through each other as directed in row 1.

The pattern will now repeat itself, although it will not be necessary to continue to twist the beginning and ending loops on row 2. (The twist just helped to hold the stitching together on the first row since those loops did not loop into anything else.)

Pillow back

R1) With color A, ch 3, work 15 dc into first ch made. Sl st to top of beginning chain.
R2) Ch 2. In same stitch work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. [Dc in next 3 stitches. In next stitch work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat [] 2 more times. Dc in last 3 stitches, join with sl st to beginning ch.
R3) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 7 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 5 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R4) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 11 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 7 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R5) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 15 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 15 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R6) Ch 2, dc in next space. [In chain 1 corner, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 19 stitches.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 17 stitches, sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.
R7) Join Color A in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 23 stitches. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 23 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R8) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 27 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 25 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R9) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 31 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 27 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R10) Ch 2, dc in next 5 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 35 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 29 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R11) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 39 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 39 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R12) Ch 2, dc in next space. [In chain 1 corner, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 43 stitches.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 41 stitches, sl st to beginning ch. Finish off.
R13) Join Color A in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 47 stitches. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 47 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain.
R14) Ch 2, dc in next stitch. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 51 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, dc in last 49 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R15) Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches. [In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in next 55 stitches.] Repeat [] 2 more times. In chain 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Dc in last 51 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Finish off.
R16) Join Color B in ch 1 corner, ch 2, work 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in same space. [Dc in next 59 stitches. In ch 1 corner work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.] Repeat between [] 2 more times. Dc in last 59 stitches, join with sl st to beginning chain. Do not finish off.

Weave in all remaining ends on pillow back and front. Place pillow top and bottom together, wrong side facing each other. (Right side out.) Ch 1, then sc evenly around with color B, working through the stitches on both the pillow back and front. Once you have worked around 3 sides, insert the pillow form and stitch together the last side. Ch 1, turn. Sc in first stitch. [Skip next stitch, 5 dc in next stitch. Skip next stitch, sc in next stitch.] Repeat around, ending with 5 dc and a skippped stitch, then join with a sl st to beginning sc. Finish off and weave in remaining end. Your pillow is done!

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

The Crossover Hat

 

With a few 70 degree days already under our belt, winter feels like it is quickly drawing to an end.  But I suspect that there are still some cold days ahead of us yet where we are all going to need a warm hat.  The Crossover Hat is so named for two reasons.  One, because it will fit both men and women, and two, because the stitches in this hat cross over.

You can see the details of the stitch better with the two colors.

I personally like a hat that is a bit roomier (I seem to have slippery hair that makes hats slide off), but if you want it to be a bit more fitted for a lady, just go down a hook size or two and you should be fine.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)
Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

 
You will need:
Worsted Weight Yarn (I used partial skeins of yarn such as Red Heart, so perhaps 3-4 oz.)
J/6mm hook
Fur pom pom (optional)

Fdc 70, join. This should measure 21″ un-stretched, before joining.
*Tip. When joining fdc, on the last stitch, start stitch as normal, but after making the chain one, insert hook into base of beginning stitch and join with a slip stitch. Then continue working the rest of the fdc as normal, and then sl st to the top of stitch. This joins the stitches at the base and the top with a seamless look.

R1-3) Ch 2, work fpdc, then bpdc. Continue to alternate fpdc and bpdc around, ending with a bpdc. Join with sl st to beginning stitch. (Starting chain does not count as a stitch, here or after.)
R4) Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R5) Repeat round 4.
R6) Ch 2, skip first stitch, dc in next. Go behind just worked dc and work a dc in the skipped stitch. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R7) Repeat round 4.
R8) Repeat round 6.
R9) Ch 2, [dc in first 5 stitches, work 1 dc2tog in the 6’th and 7’th stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (60 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R10) Ch 2, [dc in first 4 stitches, work 1 dc2tog in the 5’th and 6’th stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (50 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R11) Ch 2, work crossed stitches as per round 6, but skip a stitch between every two sets of crossed stitches. (40 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R12) Ch 2, [dc in first 2 stitches, work 1 dc2tog in the 3’rd and 4’th stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (30 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R13) Ch 2, [dc in first stitch, work 1 dc2tog in the 2’nd and 3’rd stitch.] Repeat between [ ] around. (20 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R14) Ch 2, dc2tog around, join with sl st to beginning stitch.
Finish off, leaving a long tail. With a needle, stitch around, pull up tight. Pull yarn to inside and tie off. Weave in ends and add a pom pom if desired.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Cake Dots Scarf

 

An updated pattern using a Caron Cake.

Supplies:
(1) 7.1 oz. Caron Cake, worsted weight
Hook: H/8 5.00mm

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Double Crochet Together (dctog)

Ch 34.

R1) 1 dc in 5’th ch, ch 1 and dc in same ch. [Skip 2 ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch.] Repeat between [ ] to end of row, skip 1 ch and and dc in last ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R2) Dc, ch 1, dc in each ch 1 space, ending row with 1 dc in turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R3) Repeat R2, ending with ch 1 and turn.
R4) Sc in each dc and ch 1 space. Ch 3 and turn.
R5) Skip first 3 sc, 5 dc in next sc. [Skip 4 sc, 5 dc in next sc.] Repeat between [ ] to end of row, ending with 1 dc in last sc, ch 5 and turn.
R6) Skip first dc. [Work 5 dctog in next 5 dc, ch 4.] Repeat between [ ] to last cluster, ch 2, 1 dc in turning ch, ch 1 and turn.
R7) Sc in first dc, 2 sc in ch 2. [Sc in 5 dctog, 4 sc in ch 4.] Repeat between [ ] to end of row, ending with 3 sc in turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R8) Dc, ch 1, dc in 3’rd sc, [skip 2 sc, dc, ch 1, dc in next sc], repeat between [ ] across, ending with skipping one sc and dc in last sc. Ch 3 and turn.
R9-10) Repeat row 8, ending row 10 with a ch 1 and turn.
To continue pattern, repeat rows 4-10. Continue repeating until yarn runs out, ending with row 7 and leaving enough yarn to work a row of slip stitch.
Slip stitch the two short ends together, finish off, and weave in ends.

 

The original scarf

(1) 7 oz. Red Heart
H/8  5.00mm hook

 

Work pattern as above, ending with row 10. Finish off, weave in ends.

 

 

The super-sized scarf

12 oz. worsted weight yarn (I used Caron One Pound)
N/9mm hook

 

Work pattern just like the instructions for the original scarf. Add fringe if desired.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Preteen Slouchy Hat

 

Today’s pattern is an easy hat for pre-teens that is made from Homespun yarn by Lion Brand. I’ve seen a lot of comments from people that hate this yarn because it is hard to see your stitches. This pattern helps to eliminate that problem. I designed this hat to fit my 3 nieces, who range in age from 8-12. It fit all of them fine. I have a small head and it even fit me, but with not as much slouch.

While we are talking hats, have you ever checked out All Free Crochet?  They have tons of great hat patterns, plus so much more.

3 oz. Homespun by Lion Brand yarn
N/9mm hook
Iron on or sew on embellishment
Large eye needle
Sewing needle and thread

 
All stitches are worked in the back loop only. Ch 2 does not count as a stitch.
Ch 3.
R1) In first chain made, work 10 hdc. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R2) Ch 2, work 2 hdc in each stitch around. (20 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R3) Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch. Continue working 1 hdc, then 2 hdc around. (30 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R4) Ch 2, hdc in same, hdc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch. Continue working 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc around. (40 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R5) Ch 2, hdc in same stitch, hdc in next stitch, hdc in next stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch. Continue working 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc around. (50 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch. At this point your circle should measure about 6 1/2 inches across.
R6-18) Ch 2, hdc in first stitch and each stitch around.  Join with sl st to top of beginning stitch.
Finish off, weave in ends.
Pin embellishment in place, with thread and needle, stitch around outside edge with small stitches.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way.  You may link to my pattern from another site.  You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

The Lacy Hat

 

As much as I like designing patterns, sometimes I just want to whip up something that someone else has already figured out. Enter this hat. I found a pattern that I liked and that looked like it would be fairly quick to stitch. I noticed there were some comments on the gauge of the pattern, so I stitched and checked and everything seemed right on. Well, it wasn’t. A good half way through the hat, and it was just too small. I frogged, went with a bigger hook, tried again, and no. Then I decided to read the comments that people had left on the pattern, and it appears that I was not alone. It was a lovely hat, and whatever she did obviously worked for the designer, but it just wasn’t going to work for me. Since I was already in hat mode, I decided to keep playing with the yarn that I had frogged and see what I could come up with. And the “Lacy” Hat was born.

K/7mm Hook
2 oz. Worsted Weight yarn

Stitches used:
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)

Ch 10.
Hdc in back loop of third chain from hook and each ch across. Ch 2, turn.
Hdc in back loop of second stitch from hook and each stitch across, including the top of the turning ch, ch 2, turn. (9 stitches)
Repeat for a total of 36 rows. Un-stretched, this should measure 16″ to 17″ long x 2 1/2″ wide.
Join short ends with a sl st across.
R1) Ch 1, turn work so you are now working into the ends of the rows. Sc 3 stitches for every two rows around. (54 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning sc.
R2) Ch 2, dc in same stitch. Skip two stitches, work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in next stitch. Skip next two stitches, dc in next stitch. Repeat around, ending with 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Skip last two stitches and join with a sl st to beginning stitch.
R3-7) Ch 2, fpdc in first dc, in ch 1 space work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning st.
R8)  Ch 2, fpdc in first stitch, in ch 1 space work 1 dc, ch 1, 1dc. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R9)  Ch 2, fpdc in first stitch, dc in ch 1 space. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R10)  Ch 2, Fpdc in first stitch, skip next stitch, fpdc in next stitch. Repeat around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
Finish off, leaving a long tail of yarn. Thread needle with yarn, stitch evenly around and pull up yarn to close hole. Pull yarn to inside, tie tight and weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Navy and Cream Small Throw

 

I bought the yarn used here with an entirely different project in mind. I quickly realized two things. A) I hadn’t bought nearly enough for that project, and B) the original project was going to end up being way too expensive with this yarn. I’m still excited about creating that original pattern and I’m still planning on doing it, but in a more affordable fashion. Until then, I came up with this smaller blanket that would be great as a lap throw, travel blanket, or even a play mat/blanket for baby.

Blanket measures 42″ x 46″.

(2) skeins LionBrand Thick and Quick in Fisherman- 12 oz./223 yd each
(2) skeins LionBrand Thick and Quick in Navy- 12 oz./223 yd each
N/9mm hook

Stitches used:
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)
Double Crochet (dc)

R1) With cream, Fdc 84.
R2-4) Ch 2, turn, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R5-8) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R9-12) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R13-16) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R17-20) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R21-24) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R25-28) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R29-32) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R33-36) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R37-40) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R41-44) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R45-48) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
R49-52) Join cream, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across.
Border) Join navy, ch 2, dc in second stitch and each stitch across. Work 2 sc in corner, then 2 sc in side of each dc down side of blanket. Work 2 sc in corner, then one dc in each stitch across the bottom edge of blanket. Work 2 sc in corner, then 2 sc in side of each dc down side of blanket. Work 2 sc in corner, join with sl st to beginning chain. To save weaving in ends if you did not carry your yarn, work over the ends when working the sc down the side of the blanket. Finish off and weave in remaining end.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Chunky Hat and Infinity Scarf Set

 

So far, 2018 has been a very cold year. We have had rivers and lakes freezing over here in our corner of the world that haven’t frozen for at least 20 years. Everyone has been dusting off their ice skates, bundling themselves up, and heading out for some winter fun. But me, I have been inside with my coffee and my yarn, crocheting away and creating something super warm and cozy for you to bundle up in.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Double Crochet (dc)
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)

(2) skeins Lion Brand Country in Quarry (#6 super bulky, 5 oz. each)
N/9mm Hook

Hat (make first)
Ch 4.
R1) Work 10 dc into first ch made. Sl st to first dc.
R2) Ch 2, work 2 dc into the back loop of each stitch around. (20 stitches) Join with sl st to first stitch.
R3) Ch 2, *work 1 dc into back loop of first stitch, 2 dc into back loop of next stitch.* Repeat between *’s around. (30 stitches) Join with sl st to first stitch.
R4) Ch 2, *work 1 dc into back loop of first two stitches, 2 dc into back loop of next stitch.* Repeat between *’s around. (40 stitches) Join with sl st to first stitch.
R5-10) Ch 2, dc into back loop of each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R11) Ch 2, *fpdc around first stitch, bpdc around next stitch.* Repeat between *’s around. Finish off, weave in ends.

Infinity Scarf (measures approx. 50 inches around and 9 inches wide)
Ch 21.
R1) Dc into back bump of third chain from hook and each ch across. (20 stitches) Ch 2, turn.
R2) Dc in each stitch across. Ch 2, turn.
R3) Dc in back loop of each stitch across. Ch 2, turn.
R4-68) Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 68 rows, or until yarn runs out, ending on a row 2 repeat and making sure to leave a long enough tail to sl st ends together.
At end of last row, ch 1, turn, bring short ends together and join with a slip stitch worked in back loops across. Finish off, weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.