Sparkly Green Scarf

I buy a lot of my yarn from thrift stores, sale bins, etc, and somehow I've managed to acquire quite the stock pile of mismatched random skeins of yarn that just aren't quite big enough for a lot of the patterns that I like.  So, I decided to mess around with some different stitches and come up with some scarves that used small single skeins.  And this is what happened.

Materials:  (1) 4 oz. skein worsted weight yarn.  Mine was a vintage skein of green labeled Sparkle-Glow...and not a lot more was printed on the label.

Hook:  H/8 5.00mm

Chain 30.

R1.  Dc in 5'th ch from hook and in next ch.  *Ch 4, skip 2 ch and sc in next ch.  Ch 4, skip 2 ch and dc in next 3 ch.*  Repeat between *'s to end of row.  Ch 3 and turn.

R2.  Skip 1'st dc and dc in next 2 dc.  *Ch 2 and dc in ch 4 (from previous row), skip sc and dc in next ch 4.  Ch 2, then dc in next 3 dc.*  Repeat between *'s to end of row.  Ch 3 and turn.

R3.  Skip 1'st dc and dc in next 2 dc.  *Ch 4, skip ch 2 (from previous row), sc between the 2 dc (from previous row).  Ch 4, then dc in next 3 dc.*  Repeat between *'s to end of row.  Ch 3 and turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf measures 60" long (or you run out of yarn), ending with row 2.

I did not plan on adding the fringe until I was close to the end of my skein and found one of those annoying knot places where the factory joined the yarn.  I didn't really want to do a join that close to the end of the scarf so I decided to quit crocheting and add the fringe instead.  For instructions on how to do the fringe go to pretty pink flowers scarf.

Barbie's Simple Crochet Sweater

I have searched all over the web and while I have found some really great crochet patterns for Barbie, I haven't been able to find a basic sweater like the image that was in my head.  So I set out to see if I could create a pattern.  And lo and behold, I could!  And it only took me one day to do it!  As you can see from the picture below, this pattern will fit both styles of Barbie.                                                     

Even better, this pattern is actually pretty simple and quick to work up.

Here's what you will need to make one.
Yarn-No 1 fine yarn (sock yarn, baby yarn, etc.)
Hook-steel #1(2.75 mm)
1 small snap
Sewing needle and thread.


Body of sweater-the bottom band
Ch 6
R1. Sc in back loop of second chain and every chain across. Ch 1 and turn.
R2. Sc in back loop of every stitch across.  Ch 1 and turn.
Repeat row 2 for a total of 34 rows.  Ch 1 and turn.
Join to first row by working a sc in back loop of last row and remaining loop of beginning ch row.

Body of sweater-working up
R1.  Next, ch 1 and sc in end of each row around.  (35 sc)  Sl st to beginning sc.  Ch 1.
R2 & 3.  Sc in each stitch around, sl st to beginning sc.  Ch 1.
R 4.  Sc in each st around, adding one extra sc in last st.  Sl st to beginning sc, ch 1. 36 sc.
R 5.  Sc in each stitch around, sl st to beginning sc.  Ch 1.
R6.  Sc in each stitch around, adding one extra sc in beginning st and one extra sc in ending st for a total of 38 st.  Join with sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R7 & 8 & 9.  Sc in each stitch around.  Join with sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R10.  Repeat R 6. 40 stitches.
R11.  Sc in each stitch around, ch 1, turn.
R12.  Repeat R 6 except skip joining with sl st.  Ch 1, turn. 42 stitches.
R13 & 14.  Sc in each stitch around, ch 1, turn.
R15.   Sc in first 8 stitches, ch 12, skip next 5 stitches, sc in next 16 stitches, ch 12, skip next 5 stitches, sc in last 8 stitches, ch 1, turn
R16.  Sc in first 7 stitches, skip next st, 12 sc in ch 12, skip next st, sc in next 14 stitches, skip next st, sc 12 in ch 12,  skip next stitch, sc in last 7 stitches, ch 1, turn (52)
R17.  Sc in first 6 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 12 stitches, skip next stitch, sc in next 12 stitches, skip next stitch, sc in next 12 stitches, skip next stitch, sc in last 6 stitches.  Ch 1, turn (48)
R18.  Sc in first 6 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 10 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 12 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 10 stitches, skip next st, sc in last 6 stitches. ch 1, turn.  (44)
R19.  Sc in first 6 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 8 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 12 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 8 stitches, skip next st, sc in last 6 stitches, ch 1, turn. (40)
R20.  Sc in first 6 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 6 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 12 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 6 stitches, skip next st, sc in last 6 stitches, ch 1, turn. (36)
R21.  Sc in first 5 st, skip next st, sc in next 6 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 10 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 6 stitches, skip next st, sc in next 5 stitches.

Body of sweater-back opening
Ch 1, then sc down one side of back opening 11 stitches, sl st in bottom joining st, sc 11 up other side of back opening, finish off.
Turn right side out.

Sleeve (make 2)
Bottom band
ch 4
R1.  Sc in back loop of second chain, and next 2 stitches.  Ch 1 and turn
R2.  Sc in back loop of all 3 stitches, ch 1 and turn.
Repeat for a total of 10 rows.
Join to first row by working sc in back loop of stitch and remaining loop of beginning ch in all 3 stitches.

 
 Sleeve-working up
R1.  Ch 1, work 1 sc in end of each row around (11 sc). Join with sl st to beginning sc.  Ch 1.
R2 & 3.  Sc in each stitch around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R4.  Work 1 extra sc in first st, sc in each st around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1. 12 st.
R5.  Sc in each stitch around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R6.  Sc in each st around, working 1 extra sc in last st, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1. 13 st.
R7.  Sc in each stitch around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R8.  Work 1 extra sc in first st, sc in each st around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.  14 st.
R9.  Sc in each st around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R10.  Sc in each st around, working 1 extra sc in last st, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.  15 st.
R11.  Sc in each st around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R12.  Work 1 extra sc in first st, sc in each st around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.  16 st.
R13 & 14.  Sc in each st around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R15.  Sc in each st around, working 1 extra sc in last st, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.  17 st.
R16-22.  Sc in each st around, sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R23.  Sc in each st around, sl st to beginning sc.  Finish off. Turn inside out.

Stitch sleeves to body of sweater, right sides together.  Attach snap at back opening.

Fancy Granny Scarf

I found this lovely scarf and decided I wanted to try and make my own.  And this is what I came up with.

 A little different but still (in my opinion, lol) very pretty.

The Squares.
The first step was to find a pattern for a granny square that I liked.  The original pattern was for a blanket but I am using it for my scarf. 
 I used hook H/8-5mm and some Red Heart Super Soft yarn.  (I'm guessing I used about 7 oz.  I don't know the exact amount since I was working with a skein that I had already used yarn out of.  I also definitely recommend using a soft yarn for this project.)  The pattern for the square said that it would make a 7"x7" square but mine ended up being only 6"x6".  Since I was going for a scarf that measured at least 60" that meant I needed 10 squares.  If your squares are bigger you can adjust how many you will need.
You can find the square pattern here- Get pattern here.

Joining the Squares.
Once you have your squares made you will need to join them.  I joined mine by putting 2 squares wrong sides together and inserting hook front to back through inside loop of top square and back to front through inside loop of bottom square.  Yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook. At the corners I worked one joining stitch in each chain 3.  If this makes no sense feel free to use whatever joining method you prefer.

The Border.
For round one work 1 sc in every stitch.  At each join work 1 sc in chain 3 space, 1 sc in join stitch, and 1 sc in chain 3 space.  At every corner work 2 sc, chain 1, 2 sc in each chain 3 corner.  Join with slip stitch to beginning sc stitch.
Round 2- slip stitch in next 2 stitches, chain 4, 1 dc in same stitch, chain 1, * (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in fourth stitch, ch 1* around, working (1 dc, chain 3, 1 dc) at each corner.  (It may be necessary to "fudge" the pattern a little to get the corners to work out properly.)  Slip stitch in chain 3 of beginning chain 4.  Fasten off.  Weave in ends.  Wear.

Oh So Warm Crocheted Blanket

Sometimes necessity truly is the mother of invention.  And such was the case with this blanket.  I had enough of the green yarn to make it a fairly decent size but considering the thickness of this blanket I wanted it to be a bit larger than what I had the yarn for.  And so I experimented with adding a border in a totally different weight of yarn and....it worked!  As a side note I don't recommend trying this one until winter-boy did I get hot with all that blanket in my lap while I worked on it!
In other news this is my first crocheted blanket ever.  Yay me, lol.

The yarn I used was (8) 6 oz./170g skeins of super bulky Red Heart Grande in dk thyme and approx. 5 oz. of  Caron One Pound in lace.

Hook used was N/9.00mm.

Part One:  the 45" by 52" piece in green
chain 133.
Work the pattern found at this link-  v/shell stitch afghan
Repeat rows until piece measures 45".  Finish off.

Part Two: the border in cream
Continue working with the N/9.00mm hook.
R1:  Slip stitch to corner of blanket.  Working down the side of the blanket (end of the rows), chain 3 for beginning dc, work 2 dc in end of each stitch.  Chain 2 at corner and working down beginning chain row of blanket, dc 1 in each single stitch place and dc 2 in each chain space.  Here is a picture to help explain what I mean.

(You will have an alternating repeat of 1 dc, then 2 dc.)  Chain 2 at corner and work 2 dc in each end of stitch down side of blanket.  Chain 2 at corner and work 1 dc in first stitch, skip next st, then *2 dc in center of shell, 1 dc in next stitch, skip one stitch and work 2 dc in center of v, 1 dc in next stitch, skip one stitch, repeat from * until end of row.  2 dc in center of last shell stitch, then ch 2 at corner and slip stitch to beginning chain 3.

R2:  Chain 3, dc in each dc, working (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in each corner.  Slip stitch to beginning ch 3.

R3:  Beginning with a skip stitch, 1 sc, work a pattern of skip one stitch, 1 sc, skip one, 5 dc in next stitch around, making sure to work a 5 dc in ch 1 corners from previous row.  You may have to adjust the skip stitch and 1 sc close to the corners to make the corners work out properly.  Slip stitch to join scallop row and finish off.

Weave in all your ends and you are done!  Finished measurements are 49" by 55"
Here is a nice shot with a photo-bombing dog.

And some more pictures just because I can.

 Picture of the border.

 Up close of the texture.

My Basic Granny Square

The other day I wanted to make some basic granny squares.  I had an idea of what I wanted to do but wasn't completely sure.  I went searching online and to my surprise, had a hard time coming up with some decent instructions.  So I threw a few ideas I did find into a bag, added what I thought I  wanted to do, shook it all up, and this is what came out.

 I used some worsted weight wool yarn and an I/5.5 mm hook which gave me a 4 inch square.  Different fibers, weights of yarn and hook size will, of course, affect the size of your finished square.

Ch 4, join w/sl st to first ch.

 R1.  Ch 3, 2 dc into ch 4 ring, ch 1. * 3 dc into ring, ch 1*  Repeat between * 2 more times.  Join w/sl st to top of beginning ch 3.  Fasten off.

R2.  Join w/sl st to a ch 1 space from previous row.  Ch 3, 2 dc in same space.  *Ch1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in same space. *  Repeat between * 2 more times.  Ch 1, 3 dc in same ch 1 space as beginning ch3.  Ch 1, join w/sl st to top of beginning ch 3.  Fasten off.

R3.  Join w/sl st to a ch 1 space from previous row.  Ch 3, 2 dc in same space.  *Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 space, ch1, 3 dc in same space.*   Repeat between * 2 more times.  Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 space.  Ch 1, 3 dc in same ch 1 space as beginning ch 3.  Ch 1, join w/sl st to top of beginning ch 3.  Fasten off.

R4.  Join w/sl st to a ch 1 space from previous row.  Ch 3. * Dc in next 3 dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc in next 3 dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc in next 3 dc, 3 dc in ch 1 space.*  Repeat between * two more times.  Dc in next 3 dc, dc in ch 1 space, 3 dc in next 3 dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in same ch 1 space as beginning ch3.  Join w/sl st to top of beginning ch 3.  Fasten off.

To finish, weave in ends and trim.

A whole bunch of pretty grannies waiting to be trimmed and used.

*Update:  Go here to see what I did with all these squares.

Coming up Roses Pillow

 I found this lovely doily at a flea market and couldn't resist.  Especially since it only set me back a dollar.  When I picked it up it said, "I want to be a pillow."  I said "okay."  (In other news I also got that adorable chair at an auction for a dollar.  Can't wait until I have time to refinish it.  Future post maybe?)

 I wanted to contrast it onto a more rugged fabric and luckily enough I had this burlap style fabric in my stash.  I lined it with a matching solid fabric so the stuffing wouldn't escape.  Burlap is kinda holey.   Then I just hand sewed the doily on wherever I felt like it needed to be stitched down.  I think I may have gone a little overboard but better safe than sorry.  I went around all the leaves and flowers, the very center, and a few laps around the middle.  I also changed my thread to match what I was sewing down to help hide my stitching.

 Construction was pretty basic.  Sewed the two sides right side together, leaving an opening to turn.  Trimmed corners, turned right side out, stuffed, and then to close opening plus add a finish detail I just top stitched all around the outside.

Sweater Purse

I found some great blogs about how to make a purse from a sweater and decided to try it for myself.  This sweater was one that I had really liked and when it did that dreadful sweater shrink thing, I decided to save it and remake it into something else.  That and an old belt and a new purse was born.  I didn't take pictures of the process because I didn't think I would be sharing this as a project but it turned out so well that I decided to go ahead and share with links to the blogs that I followed.  The first blog was sarahdudik yellow-sweater-turns-into-a-bag-with-pockets/.  This blog led me to the second blog at lemonsqueezyhome/purse-week-kick-off.  I followed the main idea in both blogs but threw in my own changes.  My purse pieces ended up measuring about 13" x 11".  I used an old belt for the handles and with the little left over piece at the end of the belt I made a closure tab with a snap hammered in.  I'm very happy with how it turned out and can't wait to make some more!  A shot of the lining-I used a fat quarter.

 

Close up of the handles and closure.

 

Happy sewing!

Sew easy tote-from a skirt and a belt

It's summer, and if you're like me, you really don't have a lot of time for making stuff.  But also, if you're like me, you're prone to "making stuff" withdrawals.  So here is a super easy project that you can whip up in no time.

Step 1.  (and this is the really hard part)  Go thrift store shopping.  Or yard sale-ing.  Or root through your closet.  And find a cute little mini skirt and a belt that no one is wearing.  I've made these using adult size skirts-this tutorial features a child size skirt.  If you go with an adult size, I recommend staying with a small size as the larger sizes tend to get too wide for the length-which will just make your bag very awkward.

Step 2.  Turn the skirt inside out and sew the bottom of the skirt together.  I sewed this seam twice to reinforce it.

Step 3.  (optional)  Sew a triangle at the bottom corners of your bag.  This will help to give it more of a base.

Step 4.  Prepare your belt.  I had to take a seam ripper to mine to take it apart and remove the hardware.  (Save the hardware, you can use it in another project.)

         Then, I cut my belt in half.

Step 5.  Pin your new handles to your bag.  Usually I carefully measure everything.  Today I just eyeballed it and pinned them in place.

        Sew the handles in place and you are done!  Wasn't that super easy?

Yellow Polka Dots Summer Scarf

Have you ever started one of those projects that just seemed to be jinxed?  No matter what you do or how easy/hard the project is, it just doesn't want to happen and all you really want to do is shove it in a drawer and forget that you ever tried.  For some reason this scarf was one of those projects for me.  It's really not that difficult to make but I think I crocheted the thing 3 times with all the pulling out stitches and redoing I had to do.  But I promised all of you that I was working on a summery scarf pattern so I persisted and here it finally is.  My sincere apologies for it taking so long.  (In other news this is my modeling debut and also my self photography debut. :D)

Here is what you will need.

Yarn: I used a little over 2 skeins of 100% cotton sport weight yarn that were 2 1/4 oz. each.
Hook:  Size G

Chain 41.
R1:  1 dc in 7'th ch, *ch 1, 1 dc in 2nd ch, repeat from *, 1dc in last ch, ch 3, turn.
R2:  3 dc in 1st dc of previous row, * 1dc in 2nd dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, 7 dc in 2nd dc, repeat from *.  4 dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.
R3:  Work 3 dc together in the 2nd and next 2 dc, *ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, work 7 dc together in the next 7 dc, repeat from *, work 3 dc in next 3 dc, 1 dc in turning ch, ch 4, turn.
R4.  *1 dc in ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in top of 7 dc worked together, ch 1, repeat from *, 1 dc in turning ch, ch 4, turn.
R5:  Skip 1'st dc, *dc in next dc, ch 1, repeat from *, 1 dc in turning ch, ch 4, turn.
R6.  1 dc in 2nd dc, *7 dc in the 2nd dc, 1 dc in the 2nd dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next dc, ch 1, repeat from *, 1 dc in turning ch, ch 4, turn.
R7:  1 dc in 2nd dc, *ch 3, work 7 dc together in next 7 dc, ch 3, 1dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1dc in next dc, repeat from *, 1 dc in turning ch, ch 4, turn.
R8:  dc in 2nd dc, *ch 1, dc in ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in top of 7 dc worked together, ch 1, 1 dc in ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, repeat from *, 1 dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.
Repeat R2-8 17 times.
Repeat R2-7 1 time.
Stitch 1 row of sc evenly all around the outside edge of the scarf, remembering to add an extra stitch at the corners to prevent bunching, slip stitch to first sc, and finish off.
Weave in all of the ends, trim, and done.

If you want to work this in a different yarn or would like a different width, the foundation chain is any number divisible by 12, plus 5.  To change length repeat R1-8 until desired length is reached.  (I skipped row 8 on the final repeat so that the ending rows and the beginning rows would match.)

Second attempt at modeling.  :)

P.S.  I have been known to make mistakes.  If you should find any feel free to let me know in the comments.  Thanks!

Basic Denim Patchwork Tote with Applique

Hello all, today we are going to make a very useful tote from some not so useful anymore jeans.

BODY OF BAG:
First you will need to cut 8 squares of denim.  I cut mine 7" square, which resulted in a 12' square bag, with 1/2" seam allowances.
Then lay out your squares.

 Stitch together, press open seam allowances and topstitch 1/8" from each side of seam.  The topstitching accomplishes a couple of things here, it reinforces the seams, helps the seams lay neater since this bag is not lined inside, and adds a little more detail.  I choose to topstitch mine with pink thread to complement my applique.

You would think that pink thread on blue denim would show up better but no.  Squint real hard, maybe you will be able to see it. :)
APPLIQUE:
Now to add the bird applique.  You can find the pattern here. bird applique
Cut one of the body and one of the wing.

First, using a zigzag stitch, stitch the wing to the body.  Like so.

Then, zigzag stitch the body to the bag.  When placing the bird on the bag, keep in mind that you will "lose" about an inch from the bottom of the bag.  (This happens after adding the corner gussets to create a base for the bag.)

After the bird is all stitched on, find a button for his eye and stitch that on.  (For some reason I always wait to do this last. But go ahead, save yourself a lot of pain and suffering and do it now.)

Next, stitch the bottom seam, press, and topstitch.  Then stitch the side seams.

Now we need to make a gusset to help give the tote a bottom.  With the bag wrong side out, line up the side seam to the bottom seam to create a triangle, pin, and mark 1" from the outside edge.  Here's a picture to help.

Stitch the line that you marked.  Turn it right side out to make sure that everything stayed lined up, then back to wrong side out to trim  the bulk of the "triangle" away.  Then back to right side out.

Turn under about 1/2" inch on top side of bag and hem.

HANDLES:
Now cut two strips of denim that measure about 4"x27".  Press the strips in half long ways, then fold in from each side to meet the first press, and press.  It should look like this.

Fold it all together and topstitch down each side of handle about 1/4" from edge.

Now, at the top of the bag, measure in 1 1/2" from each side seam and place a pin.  I'm going to call this a "pin fence".  Normally I would say measure and pin the handle to the bag, but that many layers of denim is awful thick to pin through.  So, I make a pin fence and hold the handle in place while I stitch it.

There are a couple of methods you could use to attach the handle.  I choose to simply stitch over the hem stitching, going back and forth a couple of times.

And that's it.  Now you can go shopping with your brand new tote!

I plan on adding some more applique patterns in the future so keep watching for them. :)