Gingerbread Man Garland

 

(Originally posted Dec. 18, 2017) Today I thought I would make some Christmas candy. I didn’t grow up around a lot of candy making (we are more bread making kind of people), so I don’t really have many candy recipes that are tried and true. I have tons of food recipes pinned on pinterest because, of course, all the pretty pictures! I thought I would try out a couple of them.  Not that they were a complete flop, but I think I’m better off sticking to bread baking. And crocheting.
Speaking of crocheting, here is another garland pattern. Today we have a string of gingerbread men.

Worsted weight yarn-small amounts of brown and tan for bodies, black and cream for faces, and scrap pieces in assorted colors for bow ties.
J hook
Large eye needle
Safety pin or stitch marker

Stitches used-
Slip stitch (sl st)
Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc)
Double crochet (dc)

1) Starting the head- Ch 2, sc 6 in first chain.  Join with a sl st to first sc, ch 1.
2) Sc 2 in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. Ch 1. (12 sc) At this point is is very helpful to put a safety pin or stitch marker in the joining sl st.
3) Starting the body- Sc 2 in first sc (same as one joined into on previous round), ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
4) Sc 2 in first sc, sc 1 in next stitch. Ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
5) Sc 2 in first sc, sc 1 in next 2 stitches. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
6) Sc 2 in first sc, sc 1 in next 3 stitches. Ch 1. (5 sc)
7) Working up side of body, work 3 sc.
8) Creating first arm- Ch 6, then work 1 dc in 3’rd ch and in next 3 chains. (4 dc worked plus turning chain) Sl st to first row of sc on body and first sc on head. Do not work into the sl st that is marked with the safety pin/stitch marker.
9) Finishing the head- Work 2 sc in next st, then *1 sc, 2 sc* 4 times. Sl st to last stitch on head.
10) Creating the second arm- Ch 6, dc in 3’rd ch and in next 3 chains. (4 dc worked plus turning chain) Sl st to first row of sc on body.
11) Sc 3 down side of body.
12) First leg- Ch 6, dc in 4’th ch and next 2 chains. (3 dc plus turning chain) Sl st to middle (3’rd) stitch on bottom of body.
13) Second leg- Ch 6, dc in 4’th ch and next 2 chains. (3 dc plus turning chain) Sl st to side of body and finish off. Weave in ends.

If desired, stitch on a face using a contrasting yarn. Stitch x’s for the eyes, and use a back stitch to create the mouth. Add small bits of yarn tied in bows around the neck.

On back side, join two gingerbread men together at the arms with a small stitch. Tie a tight knot and trim ends close.
On end gingerbread man, join with a sl st to arm, ch 10, sl st in same space, finish off. Tie two ends together in a tight knot and trim close. Repeat for other end.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way.  You may link to my pattern from another site.  You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Pom Pom Toboggan and Infinity Scarf for Barbie

 

Christmas is literally around the corner! (Originally posted Dec. 23, 2017) I’ve noticed that there is a pom pom craze happening right now and Barbie said she wanted a pom pom hat too! I whipped up this easy pattern that would make a great last minute stocking stuffer for a little girl.

You will need:
E/3.50 hook
#1 Weight yarn (Fingerling, sock yarn)
1/2″ craft pom pom
Needle
Fabric Glue

Stitches used:
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)

*All stitches in both patterns are worked in the back loop only.

Toboggan
Ch 15
R1) Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across. (14 sc) Ch 1, turn.
R2) Sc in each stitch across. Ch 1, turn.
R3-26) Repeat row 2.
Bring short ends together, sl st evenly across. Finish off but leave a long tail. Flip work so that joining seam is on the inside. Thread yarn on needle, and sew evenly into ends of rows around, pull up tight. Pull both ends of yarn into inside of hat, tie together tightly and trim.
On outside of hat, glue pom pom into place with a small amount of fabric glue. Pin to hold in place if necessary.

Infinity Scarf
Ch 26. Join to beginning ch with sl st.
R1) Ch 1, hdc in each chain around. (26 stitches) Ch does not count as a stitch. Sl st to beginning stitch. Ch 1.
R2) Hdc in each stitch around, sl st to beginning stitch. Ch 1.
R3-4) Repeat row 2. On last round omit ch 1 and finish off. Weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way.  You may link to my pattern from another site.  You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Stocking Garland

Yes, it is the day after Christmas. (originally posted Dec. 26, 2017) So why am I posting yet another Christmas garland?  Well, if you are like me and my family, you still have a Christmas party or two in your future and you just might need an extra little bit of decor.

Worsted weight yarn- small amounts of red, white, and natural.
J hook
Large eye needle

Stitches used-
Slip stitch (sl st)
Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc)
Single crochet 2 together (sc2tog)- Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

 Color A

Ch 9
1) Sc in second ch and each ch across, work 2 sc in last ch. (9 sc) Ch 1, turn.
2) Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.
3-5) Repeat row 2.
6) Sc in first 4 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
7) Sc in each stitch across. (4 sc) Finish off.

Color B
Join with sl st where color A left off, ch 1.
1) Sc in each stitch across. (4 sc) Ch 1, turn.
2) Sc2tog twice. Finish off.

Top of stocking- (color B)
Join with sl st, ch 1, sc in end of each row across. (5 sc) Ch 1, turn.
Sc in each stitch across, finish off.

Weave in ends. (I just did a quick tuck with my needle to hide everything.)

On back side, using a small piece of yarn join stockings at toes and at top with a small stitch and tie tightly. Trim ends close.

Color C
Ch 10, join to first ch made with a sl st. Ch 15. *Sc into tops of first pair of stocking, working an additional sc into joining stitch. (11 sc). Ch 10.* Repeat between *’s until all stocking pairs are attached. Ch 25, join with sl st to 10’th ch from hook. Finish off, tuck in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way.  You may link to my pattern from another site.  You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Blankets, Blankets, Blankets.....

 

When I first picked up crocheting again, I didn’t want to spend a lot of money on yarn while I was re-learning, but I did want to have yarn on hand to work with.  This led to what became a very large supply of what I will call basic yarn.  I had a lot of skeins of things like Red Heart Super Saver.  There is nothing wrong with this kind of yarn, but for things like scarves and hats there are softer and cuddlier yarns on the market.  So then, what to do with all this yarn that would be a useful item, and how to make it into something that will still be soft and cuddly?

Enter this pattern- http://www.handcraftingwithlove.net/yarn/pat-avshell2.html

This was a great basic pattern that worked up quickly and, with a few adjustments, gave a finished project that was just the right amount of snuggly.

For each blanket, I used approximately 2.6 pounds of yarn.  I used the starting chain count for a 40 inch blanket, but used a N/9mm hook instead of an H hook.  This gave it a much softer texture.  For each blanket, I worked 84 rows.  This made it easy to divide colors into equal stripes when I wanted to do so.  My finished blankets measured 50 inches x 60 inches.  Just the right size to snuggle under with a good book on a cold autumn day!

 

This was the first blanket that I made.  I love how these colors came together!

 

And then another one…

and another….

and another!

And then I started using up smaller skeins of yarn with some random stripe blankets.

One in brown…

 

and one in shades of blue.

 

If you need a comfy handmade blanket in your life but don’t have time to make one for yourself, these are available in my Etsy shop here.

Bamboo Cables Cowl

 

For the longest time I have been meaning to learn how to do the different foundation stitches that eliminate the need for a starting chain. But I kept putting it off, stubbornly clinging to those tedious chains for some unknown reason. When I thought about how I wanted to design this cowl, and how I wanted it to look, I realized it was time. It NEEDED foundation double crochet. And so, I set about learning. Why, why was I such a brat about putting it off? It’s amazing! And so easy! I’m in love.
I’m not even going to give you a starting chain option. Seriously, if you don’t have fdc in you life, do yourself a favor and learn it today.

Stitches used:
Foundation double crochet (Fdc) I used this tutorial.
Chain (ch)
Slip stitch
Double crochet (dc)
Front post treble crochet (FPtr)  Yarn over twice.  From front, insert hook around back of post of stitch below, yarn over, draw up a loop.  (Yarn over, pull through two loops) 3 times.
Back post treble crochet (BPtr)  Yarn over twice.  From back, insert hook around front of post of stitch below, yarn over, draw up a loop.  (Yarn over, pull through two loops) 3 times.

Hook- H/8 (5 mm)

Yarn- (4) skeins of Bambool by elsebeth lavold 50 g/92 yd.  This is a bamboo blend yarn of 80% bamboo and 20% merino wool.  This yarn has been discontinued but can be found on ebay.

Finished cowl measurements- 32 inches around x 9 inches tall

Fdc 47. Ch 2, turn.
R1) Work 1 dc in second stitch from hook. Work *1 FPtr, 2 dc*. Repeat between *’s across. Ch 2, turn.
R2) Work I dc in second stitch from hook. Work *1BPtr in FPtr below, 2 dc*. Repeat between *’s across. Ch 2, turn.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until cowl is desired length. I used all 4 of my skeins completely to get a 32 inch length.
When desired length is reached, ch 1, turn. Bring ends together and use a slip stitch to join. Finish off, weave in ends.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way.  You may link to my pattern from another site.  You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Crocheted Dress for 18" Doll

I am looong overdue for a post!  If you have kept up with the comment thread on a previous post, you will know why.
So today I am bringing you a project.  I did not write the pattern, it can be found here.
I am just sharing with you the slight adjustments I made.

 The pattern calls for fingering weight cotton yarn and a C(2.75mm) hook.  I happen to have a lot of baby weight acrylic yarn in my stash which is a bit thinner.  To compensate, I used a F(3.75mm) hook and otherwise worked the pattern as directed.  I had a 2 oz. skein and didn't use all of it.  I'm guessing you could probably get away with a 1 1/2 oz. skein.

I also decided that this would look a lot better with a slip underneath.  I used the free slip pattern for Molly found here.  Instead of hemming the neck and armholes, I finished them with bias tape.  Otherwise, I made the pattern as directed.

 Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out!

Don't want to make one but like the outfit?  Hop on over to my Etsy shop where it's listed for sale.

Upated Pretty Flowers Hat

I created the pretty pink flowers hat when I first started creating my own patterns.  Since then I have learned a lot more tips and techniques and a lot more about the math behind a hat.  I decided I wanted to come back and revisit this pattern, reworking it to make it even better.  So without further ado, the new and improved "Pretty Flowers Hat".

Yarn:  about 2 oz.  worsted weight  (I used a 3.5 oz weight skein, and it looks like I still have a little less than half the skein left.)
Hook:  I/9 5.5 mm

*Important!  When joining rounds, always skip the beginning chain and join into the first st worked.  This will create an almost invisible joining seam.  

R1)  Starting with a magic circle, chain 2 and work 12 dc into the magic circle.  Pull the circle tight.  Join with sl st to first dc (skipping the chain 2).  Chain 2.
R2)  Work 2 dc into first stitch and each stitch around. (24 st)  Join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.
R3)  Work 1 dc into first stitch and 2 dc into next stitch.  Repeat around, join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.  (36 st)
R4)  Work *1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc*  repeat around.  Join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.  (48 st)
R5)  Work *1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc*  repeat around.  Join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.  (60 st)
R6)  Work *1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc*  repeat around.  Join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.  (72 st)
R7)  Work 1 dc in each st around.  join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.
R8-10)  Repeat row 7, ending with a chain 3 on round 10.
R11)  Work 1 tr in first 3 stitches.
    Making the flower:
 Chain 4,  *yarn over twice and insert hook into 4'th ch from hook.  Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops*.  Repeat between *'s once.  3 loops remain on hook.
 *Yarn over twice and insert hook into 3'rd st, pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops*.  Repeat between *'s twice.  6 loops now on hook.
 *Yarn over twice and insert hook into 4th st, pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops,  yarn over and pull through 2 loops*.  Repeat between *'s twice.  9 loops now on hook.
Yarn over and pull through over all 9 loops.
 Chain 4, *yarn over twice, insert hook into 4'th chain from hook.  Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops*.  repeat between *'s once.  3 loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Skip next two stitches, work 1 tr in each of next 3 st's.  Continue pattern of flower/3 tr around, ending with a flower.  Join with sl st to first tr.  Chain 3.  (6 flowers and 6 sets of 3 tr)
R12)  Work 1 tr into first 3 tr.
    Finishing the flower:
 Chain 2. < *Yarn over twice and insert hook into center of flower, pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook*.  Repeat between *'s two more times.  4 loops remain on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.>
Chain 3.  Repeat between < >.
Chain 2.
Work 1 tr into each of next 3 tr's.  Continue working pattern around.  Join with sl st to first tr.  Chain 2.
R13)  Work dc's around, working 1 dc into each tr, 2 dc into each ch 2 space, 3 dc into each chain 3 space, 1 dc into each petal tip stitch.  (72 dc)  Join with sl st to first dc.  Ch 1.
R14)  Work 1 sc into each st around.  Join with sl st to first sc.  Finish off in the traditional way or for a more invisible ending, follow this fabulous method found here.
Weave in your ends and wear.

Chunky Turtleneck Sweater for Barbie

 How about a nice comfy sweater for your Barbie.  This is an easy pattern that works up fairly quickly.
You can use a baby/sport weight yarn for a chunky sweater look.

This peach sweater and the pink sweater were both worked up with baby/sport weight yarn.
You can also use a baby/fingerling weight yarn for a more fitted sweater.

I think you could probably also use a sock weight yarn but I have not tried that yet.
You can also choose to omit the turtleneck for a round neck sweater.

This pattern has options.  Options are good.
Let's get stitchin'.

Yarn:  baby/sport weight or baby/fingerling
Hook:  steel hook #0
Sewing needle and matching thread.
Big fat needle to weave in yarn ends.
Snap.

*Turning ch 2 counts as first stitch of row, so skip first st.  Last stitch of row is worked into the turning ch.  Pretty standard stuff.*

*IMPORTANT!  All stitches are worked into the BACK LOOP only.  This creates the ribbed effect.*

Body of Sweater.
Ch 24
R1)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Ch 2, turn.
R2)  Hdc in each st across, ch 3, turn.
R3)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R4)  Hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn.
R5)  Repeat row 4.
R6)  Hdc in next 17 stitches. (18 stitches total)  Ch 2, turn.
R7)  Repeat row 4.
R8)  Hdc in each st, ch 8, turn.
R9)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R10-11)  Repeat row 4.
R12)  Hdc in each st across except for last 2 st.  Ch 2, turn.
R13-15)  Repeat row 4.
R16)  Hdc in each st across, ch 3, turn.
R17)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hookand each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R18-19)  Repeat row 4.
R20)  Hdc in next 17 stitches. (18 stitches total) Ch 2, turn.
R21)  Repeat row 4.
R22)  Hdc in each st across, ch 8, turn.
R23)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R24-25)  Repeat row 4.
R26)  Hdc in each st across except for last 2 st, ch 2, turn.
R27)  Hdc in each st across.
Join the two back edges by sl st up the back 14 stitches.  Finish off, weave in ends.
With needle and thread stitch shoulder seams of sweater.
Turn sweater to right side.

Sleeves.
Ch 28.
R1)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Ch2, turn.
R2-6)  Hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn.
R7)  Hdc in each st across.
Join sleeve by sl st up long edges of sleeve 24 st's. Finish off, weave in ends. Turn sleeve right side out.
Repeat to make the other sleeve.
With needle and thread, stitch sleeves into armholes, right sides together and stitching with wrong sides facing out.  Also, when placing sleeve in hole, the part where the sleeve was slip stitched together will be bottom center of sleeve.

Turtleneck (optional)
Ch 10
R1)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, ch 2, turn.
R2-13)  Hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn.
R14)  Hdc in each st across.
Finish off, weave in ends.
With needle and thread, stitch turtleneck into neck hole, right sides together, and stretching turtleneck slightly to fit neck hole.

Sew in snap at top sweater edge (not turtleneck edge) at back of sweater.

Crochet Beret for Barbie

I had this great idea that I could take patterns for humans and work them down and create patterns for Barbies.  The plan so far hasn't worked as well as I had hoped but I did come up with this cute little beret pattern by doing that.

Here is how to make one for yourself.

Number 10 crochet thread.
Number 5 steel hook.
  *Note:  With exception to row 8, do not work any stitches into the dc3tog stitches.
Ch 4.
R1)  In first chain made, work 13 dc.  Sl st to beginning ch 3.  (14 dc)
R2)  Ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each st around. Sl st to beginning ch 3.  (28 dc)
R3)  Ch 3, skip first st, *dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog, 2 dc, 1 dc* repeat around, ending with 2 dc and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3.
R4)  Ch 3, *(dc3 tog, ch 1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc, 2 dc, dc* repeat around, ending with 2 dc and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3.
R5)  Ch 3, *(dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc, dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog, dc*repeat around, ending with dc3tog and joining with sl st to beginning ch3.
R6)  Ch 3, *(dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc* repeat around, ending with dc3tog and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3

R7)  Ch3, *(dc3tog, ch1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1 sp, dc* repeat around, ending with 2 dc and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3.

R8)  Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st and ch 1 sp around, join with sl st to beginning st.

R9)  Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, join with sl st to beginning st.

R10)  Repeat row 9, finish off.

If you're not up to making your own, head on over to my Etsy shop where you can purchase one.