Valentines Heart Sweater for Barbie

 

I’ve got one more Barbie sweater coming at you for Valentines Day!  This one is a short sleeve style with white trim, a tie closure in the back, and a big white heart on the front.

Again, this pattern assumes that you have knowledge of how to change colors and carry yarn.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)
Double Crochet (dc)

Supplies
#1/Fingering weight yarn in white and red
0/3.25 steel hook

Ch 33, join with sl st to beginning ch. Ch 2.
R1) Dc in each ch around, join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in first 16 stitches, join white and sc 1, pick up red and sc in last 16 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R3) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 15 stitches, pick up white and sc 3 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 15 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R4) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 14 stitches, pick up white and sc 5 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 14 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R5) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 13 stitches, pick up white and sc 7 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 13 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R6) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 12 stitches, pick up white and sc 9 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 12 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1, turn.
R7) Repeat row 6.
R8) Repeat row 6.
R9) Skip joining stitch, sc in next 13 stitches, pick up white and sc 3 stitches, pick up red and sc 1 stitch, pick up white and sc 3 stitches, pick up red and sc in last 13 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st. Do not turn.
R10) Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, working 1 extra stitch at back opening of sweater for a total of 34 stitches. Do not turn.
R11) Ch 1, sc in first 6 stitches, ch 8, skip 4 stitches, sc in next 14 stitches, ch 8, skip 4 stitches, sc in last 6 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
R12) Work 1 sc and 1 dc in first stitch, skip next stitch. Continue around, ending with a sc and dc worked in joining stitch of previous row. Ch 1, turn.
R13) Work 1 sc and 1 dc in first stitch, skip next two stitches. Continue around, finish off.
R14) Join white, sc in each stitch around, finish off.  Leave long tails on each end and use to tie sweater at neckline.

Sleeve
Join red with sl st in bottom center of sleeve hole. Ch 1, work 3 sc, 10 dc, and 3 sc evenly around. Join with sl st to beginning st and finish off.
Join white at bottom center. Ch 1, sc in same space and next space. Sc2tog in next 2 spaces. [Sc in next 2 spaces, sc2tog in next 2 spaces.] Repeat [ ] around. (12 stitches) Join with sl st to beginning stitch and finish off.
Repeat for opposite sleeve.

Trim at bottom of sweater
Working in back loops at bottom, join white with sl st at back of sweater, ch 1. In same place, work 1 sc and 1 dc, skip next stitch. Work 1 sc and 1 dc in next stitch, skip next stitch. Repeat around, ending with a sc and dc in last stitch, join with sl st to beginning st. Fasten off.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Sweatheart Plaid Sweater for Barbie

 

 Here is another pattern to get your Barbie ready for Valentines Day.  Today’s offering is a cute little plaid sweater with a v neck and short, scalloped edge sleeves.

This pattern came about when I was messing around with the plaid technique one evening and it somehow turned into a doll sweater.  I will warn you though, all those color changes in such a small space can be a bit fiddly!

One note about finishing off the ends.  Because there are about a million of them, I tied them together in pairs inside the sweater and then gave some of them a quick tuck.  It was so much easier than trying to weave in every single end!  Also, all those ends getting woven in would have lead to a lot of extra bulk in the sweater.

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
*This pattern assumes that you have knowledge of how to carry thread and do color changes.

#1/Fingering Yarn in red, white, and pink
0/3.25 mm steel hook

With white, ch 32, join with sl st to beginning ch.
R1) Ch 2, dc in next stitch and next 2 stitches, [with pink- dc in next 4 stitches, with white- dc in next 4 stitches], repeat [] around, ending with 4 pink stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R2) Repeat round 1.
R3) With pink, ch 2, dc in next stitch and next two stitches. [With red- dc in next 4 stitches, with pink- dc in next 4 stitches], repeat [] around, ending with 4 red stitches. Join with sl st to beginning ch.
R4) Repeat round 3.
R5-6) Repeat round 1.
R7) Repeat round 3.

Back 1- (left back if you are right handed, right back if you are left handed)
R1) With pink, ch 2, dc in next stitch, dc in next two stitches. With red, dc in next two stitches. Finish off red.
R2) With pink- turn, ch 2, dc in next stitch. With white, dc in last 4 stitches.
R3) With white, turn, ch 2, dc in next stitch, dc in next two stitches. With pink, dc in last two stitches. Finish off both colors.

Front- skip 4 stitches from back 1,
R1) Join pink in 5’th stitch, ch 2, dc in next stitch. With red, dc in next 4 stitches, with pink, dc in next 4 stitches, with red, dc in next two stitches. Finish off red.
Front 1- (left front for right handed, right front for left handed)
R2) Turn. With pink, ch 2, dc in next stitch. With white, dc in next 4 stitches, turn.
R3) With white, ch 2, dc in next stitch and next two stitches. With pink, dc in last two stitches. Finish off both colors.
Front 2- (right front for right handed, left front for left handed)
R2) In top of beginning ch from row 1, join white, ch 2, dc in next stitch. With pink, dc in next 4 stitches.
R3) Turn. With pink, ch 2, dc in next stitch and next two stitches. With white, dc in last two stitches.

Back 2- (right back if you are right handed, left back if you are left handed.
skip 4 stitches from front 1,
R1) Join pink in 5’th stitch, ch 2, dc in next stitch. With red, dc in next 4 stitches. Finish off red.
R2) Turn. With pink, ch 2, dc in next stitch and next two stitches. With white, dc in last two stitches.
R3) Turn. With white, ch 2, dc in next stitch. With pink, dc in last 4 stitches. Finish off both colors.

Turn sweater inside out, stitch sweater together at shoulder seams. Tie off or weave in all ends of yarn. Turn sweater right side out.

Neckline- with white
Join with sl st at back of neckline, ch 1, sc in same space and evenly around, (approx 24 sc). Join with sl st to beginning stitch, finish off.

Sleeves- with white
R1) Join with sl st at bottom of sleeve, ch 1, sc in same space and evenly around (16 sc). Join with sl st to beginning stitch.
R2) Ch 1, sc in same space, [skip next stitch, 3 dc in next stitch, skip next stitch, sc in next stitch]. Repeat [] around, ending with 3 dc and a skipped stitch, sl st to beginning sc. Finish off.
Repeat for other side.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.

Chunky Turtleneck Sweater for Barbie

 How about a nice comfy sweater for your Barbie.  This is an easy pattern that works up fairly quickly.
You can use a baby/sport weight yarn for a chunky sweater look.

This peach sweater and the pink sweater were both worked up with baby/sport weight yarn.
You can also use a baby/fingerling weight yarn for a more fitted sweater.

I think you could probably also use a sock weight yarn but I have not tried that yet.
You can also choose to omit the turtleneck for a round neck sweater.

This pattern has options.  Options are good.
Let's get stitchin'.

Yarn:  baby/sport weight or baby/fingerling
Hook:  steel hook #0
Sewing needle and matching thread.
Big fat needle to weave in yarn ends.
Snap.

*Turning ch 2 counts as first stitch of row, so skip first st.  Last stitch of row is worked into the turning ch.  Pretty standard stuff.*

*IMPORTANT!  All stitches are worked into the BACK LOOP only.  This creates the ribbed effect.*

Body of Sweater.
Ch 24
R1)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Ch 2, turn.
R2)  Hdc in each st across, ch 3, turn.
R3)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R4)  Hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn.
R5)  Repeat row 4.
R6)  Hdc in next 17 stitches. (18 stitches total)  Ch 2, turn.
R7)  Repeat row 4.
R8)  Hdc in each st, ch 8, turn.
R9)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R10-11)  Repeat row 4.
R12)  Hdc in each st across except for last 2 st.  Ch 2, turn.
R13-15)  Repeat row 4.
R16)  Hdc in each st across, ch 3, turn.
R17)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hookand each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R18-19)  Repeat row 4.
R20)  Hdc in next 17 stitches. (18 stitches total) Ch 2, turn.
R21)  Repeat row 4.
R22)  Hdc in each st across, ch 8, turn.
R23)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R24-25)  Repeat row 4.
R26)  Hdc in each st across except for last 2 st, ch 2, turn.
R27)  Hdc in each st across.
Join the two back edges by sl st up the back 14 stitches.  Finish off, weave in ends.
With needle and thread stitch shoulder seams of sweater.
Turn sweater to right side.

Sleeves.
Ch 28.
R1)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Ch2, turn.
R2-6)  Hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn.
R7)  Hdc in each st across.
Join sleeve by sl st up long edges of sleeve 24 st's. Finish off, weave in ends. Turn sleeve right side out.
Repeat to make the other sleeve.
With needle and thread, stitch sleeves into armholes, right sides together and stitching with wrong sides facing out.  Also, when placing sleeve in hole, the part where the sleeve was slip stitched together will be bottom center of sleeve.

Turtleneck (optional)
Ch 10
R1)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, ch 2, turn.
R2-13)  Hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn.
R14)  Hdc in each st across.
Finish off, weave in ends.
With needle and thread, stitch turtleneck into neck hole, right sides together, and stretching turtleneck slightly to fit neck hole.

Sew in snap at top sweater edge (not turtleneck edge) at back of sweater.

Crochet Beret for Barbie

I had this great idea that I could take patterns for humans and work them down and create patterns for Barbies.  The plan so far hasn't worked as well as I had hoped but I did come up with this cute little beret pattern by doing that.

Here is how to make one for yourself.

Number 10 crochet thread.
Number 5 steel hook.
  *Note:  With exception to row 8, do not work any stitches into the dc3tog stitches.
Ch 4.
R1)  In first chain made, work 13 dc.  Sl st to beginning ch 3.  (14 dc)
R2)  Ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each st around. Sl st to beginning ch 3.  (28 dc)
R3)  Ch 3, skip first st, *dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog, 2 dc, 1 dc* repeat around, ending with 2 dc and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3.
R4)  Ch 3, *(dc3 tog, ch 1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc, 2 dc, dc* repeat around, ending with 2 dc and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3.
R5)  Ch 3, *(dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc, dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog, dc*repeat around, ending with dc3tog and joining with sl st to beginning ch3.
R6)  Ch 3, *(dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc* repeat around, ending with dc3tog and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3

R7)  Ch3, *(dc3tog, ch1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1 sp, dc* repeat around, ending with 2 dc and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3.

R8)  Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st and ch 1 sp around, join with sl st to beginning st.

R9)  Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, join with sl st to beginning st.

R10)  Repeat row 9, finish off.

If you're not up to making your own, head on over to my Etsy shop where you can purchase one.

V-Stitch Cardigan for Barbie

Today's pattern is a cardigan sweater for Barbie.  This pattern will fit both the tnt older style barbie and the belly button newer style Barbie, although the fit will of course be slightly looser on the newer style.

My blonde barbie is the older style.

My brunette barbie is the newer style.  I actually don't like this sweater as good in the pictures as I do in real life. Huh, I guess it's just one of those things that didn't photograph well.

Size 10 thread
Number 5 steel hook

One note before we get started.  When I joined the seams, I used the same thread and just worked a sl st.  You could also use a regular needle and thread. (I was just too lazy to go get one.)  Also, there are going to be a LOT of threads to be worked in.  At places like seams, instead of doing all that weaving in, I cheated and tied the threads securely, then trimmed close.  Again, I'm lazy.

Ch 53
R1)  Work 3 dc in 6'th chain from hook, and in every 3'rd chain across, ending with 1 dc in last chain.  Ch 3, turn.
R2)  Work 2 dc into the space between dc and 3dc in previous row, then work 3 dc in every space between sets of 3 dc across, ending with 3 dc worked into ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
R3)  Work 3 dc into every space between sets of 3 dc across, ending with 1 dc into ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 8 more rows-11 rows total.

Right front:
R1)  Work 2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc in previous row, then work 3 dc into next 3 spaces between sets of 3 dc's.  Ch 3, turn.
R2)  Work 3 dc into space between sets of 3 dc across, ending with 1 dc into ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
R3)  Repeat row 1.
R4)  Work 3 dc into next 2 spaces between sets of 3 dc, 1 dc in last space between sets of 3 dc.  Ch 3, turn.
R5)  Work 2 dc into space between dc and 3d, work 3 dc into space between sets of 3 dc, and dc 3 into ch 3 space, ch 3, turn.
R6)  Work 3 dc into spaces between sets of 3 dc, 1 dc into ch 3 space, finish off.

Left Front:
Sl st to ch 3 sp on opposite side, ch 3.
Repeat rows as for right front.

Back:
R1)  Skip first space between 3 dc's, sl st into next space.  Ch 3, 2 dc into same space.  3 dc into each space across, stopping at second to last space.  Ch 3, turn.
R2)  3 dc into each space across, 1 dc into ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
R3)  2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc.  3 dc into each space across and into turning ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
R4)  Repeat row 2.
R5)  Repeat row 3.
R6)  Repeat row 2.
R7)  2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc, 3 dc into next space,  1 dc into next space, sc into next 6 dc, 1 dc into next space, 3 dc into next 2 spaces.  Finish off.
Stitch together at shoulder seams.

Sleeve:
Ch 17
R1)  Work 3dc in 6'th ch from hook, and into every third ch across, ending with 1 dc worked into last ch.  Ch3, turn.
R2)  Work 2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc, then work 3 dc into every space between 3 dc across, ending with 3 dc worked into starting ch space.  Ch 3, turn.
R3)  Work 3 dc into every space between across, ending with 1 dc in turning ch 3.  Ch 3, turn.
R4)  Repeat row 2
R5)  Repeat row 3
R6)  Repeat row 2
R7)  Repeat row 3
R8)  Work 2 dc into first space, work 3 dc into next space,  work 3 dc into next space, ch 1, work 3 more dc into same space, work 3 dc into last 2 spaces, ch 3, turn.
R9)  Work 3 dc into each space across, including space created by ch 1, work 1 dc into turning ch 3, ch 3, turn.
R10)  Repeat row 2
R11)  Work 3 dc into first two spaces, work 3 dc, ch1, 3 dc into next space, work 3 dc into last two spaces, dc into turning ch, ch 3, turn.
R12)  Work 2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc, work 3 dc into every space across, including space created by ch 1, ending with 3 dc worked into turning ch 3, ch 3, turn.
(for 3/4 length sleeve, stop here and continue to sleeve cap)
R13)  Repeat row 3
R14)  Repeat row 2
R15)  Repeat row 3, but ch 4 and turn.
(row 16 begins the sleeve cap)
R16)  Work 3 dc into each space between 3 dc across, triple crochet into turning ch, ch 4, turn.
R17)  Repeat row 16
R18)  Repeat row 16.  Finish off.
Stitch together long sides of sleeve, beginning at bottom of row 1, and ending at top of row 15.  Turn sleeve right side out and place into armhole of sleeve, right sides together, and making sure that sleeve seam is centered at bottom of armhole (space between 3 dc's), stitch sleeve into armhole. To make sure that you are getting sleeve stitched in evenly, the middle set of 3dc in last row of sleeve should line up with the shoulder seam of the bodice.
Repeat for other sleeve.

If you want, you can stop right here and you will have a perfectly acceptable sweater.  Or you can keep going for a different look.  Like this.

Haha!  A sweater that actually buttons!

Front band:
Left Side)  Join with sl st to bottom of left front, ch 2.  Work 21 hdc evenly up front edge.  Ch 2, turn, skip first stitch, work hdc in each stitch back down front and in beginning ch 2.  Finish off.
Right Side)  Join with sl st to bottom of right front, ch 2.  Work 21 hdc evenly up front edge.  Ch 1, turn.  Work sc in first 2 stitches, *ch 2, skip next 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches*, repeat 3 times.  Ch 2, turn.  Skip first st, hdc in each stitch, working 2 hdc into ch 2 spaces.  Finish off.
Sew buttons, 4 of them, (approx. 3/8" size,can be slightly smaller but I don't recommend going any larger) onto left side of band to coordinate with the button holes created on the right side. 

The back view.

Front view on the other doll.

And back view on the other doll.