Crocheted Dress for 18" Doll

I am looong overdue for a post!  If you have kept up with the comment thread on a previous post, you will know why.
So today I am bringing you a project.  I did not write the pattern, it can be found here.
I am just sharing with you the slight adjustments I made.

 The pattern calls for fingering weight cotton yarn and a C(2.75mm) hook.  I happen to have a lot of baby weight acrylic yarn in my stash which is a bit thinner.  To compensate, I used a F(3.75mm) hook and otherwise worked the pattern as directed.  I had a 2 oz. skein and didn't use all of it.  I'm guessing you could probably get away with a 1 1/2 oz. skein.

I also decided that this would look a lot better with a slip underneath.  I used the free slip pattern for Molly found here.  Instead of hemming the neck and armholes, I finished them with bias tape.  Otherwise, I made the pattern as directed.

 Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out!

Don't want to make one but like the outfit?  Hop on over to my Etsy shop where it's listed for sale.

Upated Pretty Flowers Hat

I created the pretty pink flowers hat when I first started creating my own patterns.  Since then I have learned a lot more tips and techniques and a lot more about the math behind a hat.  I decided I wanted to come back and revisit this pattern, reworking it to make it even better.  So without further ado, the new and improved "Pretty Flowers Hat".

Yarn:  about 2 oz.  worsted weight  (I used a 3.5 oz weight skein, and it looks like I still have a little less than half the skein left.)
Hook:  I/9 5.5 mm

*Important!  When joining rounds, always skip the beginning chain and join into the first st worked.  This will create an almost invisible joining seam.  

R1)  Starting with a magic circle, chain 2 and work 12 dc into the magic circle.  Pull the circle tight.  Join with sl st to first dc (skipping the chain 2).  Chain 2.
R2)  Work 2 dc into first stitch and each stitch around. (24 st)  Join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.
R3)  Work 1 dc into first stitch and 2 dc into next stitch.  Repeat around, join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.  (36 st)
R4)  Work *1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc*  repeat around.  Join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.  (48 st)
R5)  Work *1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc*  repeat around.  Join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.  (60 st)
R6)  Work *1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc*  repeat around.  Join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.  (72 st)
R7)  Work 1 dc in each st around.  join with sl st to first dc.  Chain 2.
R8-10)  Repeat row 7, ending with a chain 3 on round 10.
R11)  Work 1 tr in first 3 stitches.
    Making the flower:
 Chain 4,  *yarn over twice and insert hook into 4'th ch from hook.  Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops*.  Repeat between *'s once.  3 loops remain on hook.
 *Yarn over twice and insert hook into 3'rd st, pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops*.  Repeat between *'s twice.  6 loops now on hook.
 *Yarn over twice and insert hook into 4th st, pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops,  yarn over and pull through 2 loops*.  Repeat between *'s twice.  9 loops now on hook.
Yarn over and pull through over all 9 loops.
 Chain 4, *yarn over twice, insert hook into 4'th chain from hook.  Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops*.  repeat between *'s once.  3 loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Skip next two stitches, work 1 tr in each of next 3 st's.  Continue pattern of flower/3 tr around, ending with a flower.  Join with sl st to first tr.  Chain 3.  (6 flowers and 6 sets of 3 tr)
R12)  Work 1 tr into first 3 tr.
    Finishing the flower:
 Chain 2. < *Yarn over twice and insert hook into center of flower, pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook*.  Repeat between *'s two more times.  4 loops remain on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.>
Chain 3.  Repeat between < >.
Chain 2.
Work 1 tr into each of next 3 tr's.  Continue working pattern around.  Join with sl st to first tr.  Chain 2.
R13)  Work dc's around, working 1 dc into each tr, 2 dc into each ch 2 space, 3 dc into each chain 3 space, 1 dc into each petal tip stitch.  (72 dc)  Join with sl st to first dc.  Ch 1.
R14)  Work 1 sc into each st around.  Join with sl st to first sc.  Finish off in the traditional way or for a more invisible ending, follow this fabulous method found here.
Weave in your ends and wear.

Chunky Turtleneck Sweater for Barbie

 How about a nice comfy sweater for your Barbie.  This is an easy pattern that works up fairly quickly.
You can use a baby/sport weight yarn for a chunky sweater look.

This peach sweater and the pink sweater were both worked up with baby/sport weight yarn.
You can also use a baby/fingerling weight yarn for a more fitted sweater.

I think you could probably also use a sock weight yarn but I have not tried that yet.
You can also choose to omit the turtleneck for a round neck sweater.

This pattern has options.  Options are good.
Let's get stitchin'.

Yarn:  baby/sport weight or baby/fingerling
Hook:  steel hook #0
Sewing needle and matching thread.
Big fat needle to weave in yarn ends.
Snap.

*Turning ch 2 counts as first stitch of row, so skip first st.  Last stitch of row is worked into the turning ch.  Pretty standard stuff.*

*IMPORTANT!  All stitches are worked into the BACK LOOP only.  This creates the ribbed effect.*

Body of Sweater.
Ch 24
R1)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Ch 2, turn.
R2)  Hdc in each st across, ch 3, turn.
R3)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R4)  Hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn.
R5)  Repeat row 4.
R6)  Hdc in next 17 stitches. (18 stitches total)  Ch 2, turn.
R7)  Repeat row 4.
R8)  Hdc in each st, ch 8, turn.
R9)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R10-11)  Repeat row 4.
R12)  Hdc in each st across except for last 2 st.  Ch 2, turn.
R13-15)  Repeat row 4.
R16)  Hdc in each st across, ch 3, turn.
R17)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hookand each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R18-19)  Repeat row 4.
R20)  Hdc in next 17 stitches. (18 stitches total) Ch 2, turn.
R21)  Repeat row 4.
R22)  Hdc in each st across, ch 8, turn.
R23)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch/st across, ch 2, turn.
R24-25)  Repeat row 4.
R26)  Hdc in each st across except for last 2 st, ch 2, turn.
R27)  Hdc in each st across.
Join the two back edges by sl st up the back 14 stitches.  Finish off, weave in ends.
With needle and thread stitch shoulder seams of sweater.
Turn sweater to right side.

Sleeves.
Ch 28.
R1)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.  Ch2, turn.
R2-6)  Hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn.
R7)  Hdc in each st across.
Join sleeve by sl st up long edges of sleeve 24 st's. Finish off, weave in ends. Turn sleeve right side out.
Repeat to make the other sleeve.
With needle and thread, stitch sleeves into armholes, right sides together and stitching with wrong sides facing out.  Also, when placing sleeve in hole, the part where the sleeve was slip stitched together will be bottom center of sleeve.

Turtleneck (optional)
Ch 10
R1)  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, ch 2, turn.
R2-13)  Hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn.
R14)  Hdc in each st across.
Finish off, weave in ends.
With needle and thread, stitch turtleneck into neck hole, right sides together, and stretching turtleneck slightly to fit neck hole.

Sew in snap at top sweater edge (not turtleneck edge) at back of sweater.

Crochet Beret for Barbie

I had this great idea that I could take patterns for humans and work them down and create patterns for Barbies.  The plan so far hasn't worked as well as I had hoped but I did come up with this cute little beret pattern by doing that.

Here is how to make one for yourself.

Number 10 crochet thread.
Number 5 steel hook.
  *Note:  With exception to row 8, do not work any stitches into the dc3tog stitches.
Ch 4.
R1)  In first chain made, work 13 dc.  Sl st to beginning ch 3.  (14 dc)
R2)  Ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each st around. Sl st to beginning ch 3.  (28 dc)
R3)  Ch 3, skip first st, *dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog, 2 dc, 1 dc* repeat around, ending with 2 dc and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3.
R4)  Ch 3, *(dc3 tog, ch 1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc, 2 dc, dc* repeat around, ending with 2 dc and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3.
R5)  Ch 3, *(dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc, dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog, dc*repeat around, ending with dc3tog and joining with sl st to beginning ch3.
R6)  Ch 3, *(dc3tog, ch 1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc* repeat around, ending with dc3tog and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3

R7)  Ch3, *(dc3tog, ch1, dc3tog) in ch 1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1 sp, dc* repeat around, ending with 2 dc and joining with sl st to beginning ch 3.

R8)  Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st and ch 1 sp around, join with sl st to beginning st.

R9)  Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, join with sl st to beginning st.

R10)  Repeat row 9, finish off.

If you're not up to making your own, head on over to my Etsy shop where you can purchase one.

Bright Shells Scarf

I've got another easy scarf pattern that doesn't use a lot of yarn.  This was one of my favorite scarves to work up.  Once I got going, it was a stitch that I could work without thinking too much about it.  It made a nice somewhat dense texture that was still very soft.

Materials:  4 oz. worsted weight yarn.
My yarn that I used.

Is that not one groovy looking yarn label?

Hook:  H/8 5mm


Ch 32.
R1.  Sc in second ch from hook.  *Skip 2 chains, 5 dc in next chain.  Skip 2 chains, sc in next chain.*  Repeat between *'s to end of row.  Ch 5 and turn.

R2.  *Sc in 3'rd dc.  Ch 2, dc in sc, ch 2.*  Repeat between *'s to end of row.  Ch 1 and turn.

R3.  Sc in 1'st dc.  *5 dc in sc, sc in dc.*  Repeat between *'s to end of row, ending with sc in turning ch.  Ch 5 and turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until desired length ending with R2.

Barbie Furniture

I have debated long and hard about whether or not to share the instructions for this project with you.

 So cute, aren't they! 
And so far, I have decided to be selfish and keep the how-to to myself.  There was a lot of mumbling and drawing and measuring and thinking involved in coming up with how to make these and I'm just not quite ready to relinquish my secrets. 
Maybe later.
But I will share some pretty pictures with you.

Mighty generous of me, I know.

And when you are done looking at the pictures, if you decide that your doll desperately needs one of these, like, today, then head on over to my Etsy shop, and let her pick out one for herself.

 What a comfy place for Barbie to sit a spell.

 Barbie can take a short nap...

or a long one.

Two's company...

three's a party!

And a few more....

More Furniture Makeovers

I found some more ugly furniture that I thought had great potential.  These little end tables just needed some paint.

I forgot to take any after pictures until I already had everything placed at the antique mall.  Because I'm smart like that.  I really like the way they look with the cream paint though.  All I did with these was a couple of good coats of spray paint.

Then there was these horribly ugly chairs.  They were super cheap so I thought it was a good time to practice my upholstery skills.

Pretty hideous, right?  They actually look better in the pictures than they did in real life.  Yikes!

Ahhh, much better.  Again, I just gave these a couple of good coats of spray paint.  My sweet hubby cut new seat bottoms for me.  I added new foam, batting, and fabric and ta-da. 

The fabric wasn't my first choice but someone had given it to me and for my practice run, I was trying to keep the cost down.  All in all, I guess they didn't turn out too bad.

Painted Credenza....and a Milk Can

Today I'm sharing my second attempt at painting furniture with chalk paint.  I thought I would share my before and after photos and also a few lessons I learned along the way.  First, the fun stuff....
before

 Pretty awesome, right?  Okay, not so much.
after

Just a little better.  I really liked the detail of the cabinet, just not the wood tone.  Same with the hardware, I liked the detail, but not the finish.

I got out some black homemade chalk paint that I had made earlier and stirred it up.  Lesson number one learned- homemade chalk paint is awesome but it can't be stored.  So only mix up what you are going to use right then.  All the plaster of paris settles out to the bottom and when you stir it up you get a bunch of chunks in your paint.  Lesson number two-if you do end up with paint like this, don't go ahead and put a coat on.  I did because I didn't want to go get more paint, thinking it would somehow be okay.  It was not.  So I had to sand off all those little bumps (not fun!) and go get more paint.  Lesson number three-not all black paint is black paint apparently.  The second black paint came from a different store and as soon as I opened it I wasn't in love with the tone.  But I went ahead and put it on, thinking that it would dry to the tone I wanted.  It got a little better as it dried, but it wasn't quite what I wanted.  Oh well, it was painted, and it really didn't look bad, so I spray painted the hardware, put on a coat of wax, put the hardware back on, and called it good.

Love that detail now!
I really didn't want to throw away all of the first paint that I had mixed up (the lumpy stuff) and I had a milk can that I was planning on painting.  I decided the gritty of the paint would actually look good on the milk can since I was going for that primitive look.

It worked.  I made a stencil out of newspaper and spray painted the star on, then touched up around it.
Both of these pieces are now for sale at our booth at the Factory.

V-Stitch Cardigan for Barbie

Today's pattern is a cardigan sweater for Barbie.  This pattern will fit both the tnt older style barbie and the belly button newer style Barbie, although the fit will of course be slightly looser on the newer style.

My blonde barbie is the older style.

My brunette barbie is the newer style.  I actually don't like this sweater as good in the pictures as I do in real life. Huh, I guess it's just one of those things that didn't photograph well.

Size 10 thread
Number 5 steel hook

One note before we get started.  When I joined the seams, I used the same thread and just worked a sl st.  You could also use a regular needle and thread. (I was just too lazy to go get one.)  Also, there are going to be a LOT of threads to be worked in.  At places like seams, instead of doing all that weaving in, I cheated and tied the threads securely, then trimmed close.  Again, I'm lazy.

Ch 53
R1)  Work 3 dc in 6'th chain from hook, and in every 3'rd chain across, ending with 1 dc in last chain.  Ch 3, turn.
R2)  Work 2 dc into the space between dc and 3dc in previous row, then work 3 dc in every space between sets of 3 dc across, ending with 3 dc worked into ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
R3)  Work 3 dc into every space between sets of 3 dc across, ending with 1 dc into ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 8 more rows-11 rows total.

Right front:
R1)  Work 2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc in previous row, then work 3 dc into next 3 spaces between sets of 3 dc's.  Ch 3, turn.
R2)  Work 3 dc into space between sets of 3 dc across, ending with 1 dc into ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
R3)  Repeat row 1.
R4)  Work 3 dc into next 2 spaces between sets of 3 dc, 1 dc in last space between sets of 3 dc.  Ch 3, turn.
R5)  Work 2 dc into space between dc and 3d, work 3 dc into space between sets of 3 dc, and dc 3 into ch 3 space, ch 3, turn.
R6)  Work 3 dc into spaces between sets of 3 dc, 1 dc into ch 3 space, finish off.

Left Front:
Sl st to ch 3 sp on opposite side, ch 3.
Repeat rows as for right front.

Back:
R1)  Skip first space between 3 dc's, sl st into next space.  Ch 3, 2 dc into same space.  3 dc into each space across, stopping at second to last space.  Ch 3, turn.
R2)  3 dc into each space across, 1 dc into ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
R3)  2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc.  3 dc into each space across and into turning ch 3 space.  Ch 3, turn.
R4)  Repeat row 2.
R5)  Repeat row 3.
R6)  Repeat row 2.
R7)  2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc, 3 dc into next space,  1 dc into next space, sc into next 6 dc, 1 dc into next space, 3 dc into next 2 spaces.  Finish off.
Stitch together at shoulder seams.

Sleeve:
Ch 17
R1)  Work 3dc in 6'th ch from hook, and into every third ch across, ending with 1 dc worked into last ch.  Ch3, turn.
R2)  Work 2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc, then work 3 dc into every space between 3 dc across, ending with 3 dc worked into starting ch space.  Ch 3, turn.
R3)  Work 3 dc into every space between across, ending with 1 dc in turning ch 3.  Ch 3, turn.
R4)  Repeat row 2
R5)  Repeat row 3
R6)  Repeat row 2
R7)  Repeat row 3
R8)  Work 2 dc into first space, work 3 dc into next space,  work 3 dc into next space, ch 1, work 3 more dc into same space, work 3 dc into last 2 spaces, ch 3, turn.
R9)  Work 3 dc into each space across, including space created by ch 1, work 1 dc into turning ch 3, ch 3, turn.
R10)  Repeat row 2
R11)  Work 3 dc into first two spaces, work 3 dc, ch1, 3 dc into next space, work 3 dc into last two spaces, dc into turning ch, ch 3, turn.
R12)  Work 2 dc into space between dc and 3 dc, work 3 dc into every space across, including space created by ch 1, ending with 3 dc worked into turning ch 3, ch 3, turn.
(for 3/4 length sleeve, stop here and continue to sleeve cap)
R13)  Repeat row 3
R14)  Repeat row 2
R15)  Repeat row 3, but ch 4 and turn.
(row 16 begins the sleeve cap)
R16)  Work 3 dc into each space between 3 dc across, triple crochet into turning ch, ch 4, turn.
R17)  Repeat row 16
R18)  Repeat row 16.  Finish off.
Stitch together long sides of sleeve, beginning at bottom of row 1, and ending at top of row 15.  Turn sleeve right side out and place into armhole of sleeve, right sides together, and making sure that sleeve seam is centered at bottom of armhole (space between 3 dc's), stitch sleeve into armhole. To make sure that you are getting sleeve stitched in evenly, the middle set of 3dc in last row of sleeve should line up with the shoulder seam of the bodice.
Repeat for other sleeve.

If you want, you can stop right here and you will have a perfectly acceptable sweater.  Or you can keep going for a different look.  Like this.

Haha!  A sweater that actually buttons!

Front band:
Left Side)  Join with sl st to bottom of left front, ch 2.  Work 21 hdc evenly up front edge.  Ch 2, turn, skip first stitch, work hdc in each stitch back down front and in beginning ch 2.  Finish off.
Right Side)  Join with sl st to bottom of right front, ch 2.  Work 21 hdc evenly up front edge.  Ch 1, turn.  Work sc in first 2 stitches, *ch 2, skip next 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches*, repeat 3 times.  Ch 2, turn.  Skip first st, hdc in each stitch, working 2 hdc into ch 2 spaces.  Finish off.
Sew buttons, 4 of them, (approx. 3/8" size,can be slightly smaller but I don't recommend going any larger) onto left side of band to coordinate with the button holes created on the right side. 

The back view.

Front view on the other doll.

And back view on the other doll.