Glam Sweater Purse

 

A new year, a new purse! Hey, why not, especially if you make it yourself! I don’t think I have ever kept anything that I have crocheted for myself before, but I loved this purse so much that I immediately started using it as soon as I had it finished. I didn’t even wait to take pictures of it first! Which means that you get to peak inside my purse now. Yikes! Oh well.

The pictures didn’t do a very good job of capturing the bits of gold that are in this yarn, but it’s there, and it’s gorgeous.

Supplies
(2) skeins Lion Brand Wool-Ease Quick & Thick in Starlight
N/9 mm hook
Lining fabric
Quilt batting
Heavy fusible interfacing
Handles

Stitches used
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Extened Half Double Crochet (ex-hdc) Yarn over, insert hook in stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through first loop. Yarn over, pull through all the remaining loops

Ch 25
R1) Sc in second ch from hook and next 22 chains. Sc 3 in next ch. Turn and working up the opposite side of the chain, sc in the next 22 chains. Sc 2 in the last ch. Join with sl st to beginning sc, ch 1.
R2) Sc 3 in the first stitch, sc in the next 22 stitches. Sc 3 in each of the next 3 stitches. Sc in next 22 stitches. Sc 3 in each of the last 2 stitches. Join with sl st to beginning st, ch 1.
R3) Sc in first stitch, sc 3 in the next stitch. Sc in the next 24, sc 3 in the next stitch. [Sc in next 2 stitches, sc 3 in the next stitch.] Repeat [] once. Sc in the next 24 stitches, sc 3 in the next stitch. Repeat [] once. Sc in the last stitch, join with sl st to beginning sc. (74 sc)
R4) Ch 3, ex-hdc in each stitch around. (I do not count starting ch as a stitch when working in the round.) Join with sl st to beginning stitch. Ch 1.
R5) From this point on, stitches are worked in the BACK LOOP ONLY. Sl st in each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 1.
R6) Ch 3, ex-hdc in each stitch around, join with sl st to beginning st. Ch 1.
R7-18) Repeat rounds 5 and 6.
R19-20) Repeat round 5. Finish off. Weave in ends.

At this point, your purse is done as far as crocheting goes. I chose to add a lining to mine, and while I’m not doing a full tutorial on how to do that, I will share a run down of what I did. There are some great tutorials out there on how to line a crochet purse, so if you aren’t familiar with it, a quick google or pinterest search should help you.
For the handles, I found a tote bag at the thrift store with handles that worked for me. If you choose to go that route, don’t overlook an ugly bag. The one I found was pretty ugly. Just look at the condition and style of the handles and go from there.
I bought the fabric that I used to line this purse, but chose to use stuff that I already had in my stash for the inner part of the lining. If you need to purchase all of the materials, there are lots of great options at your local fabric store. You can probably find something that will work even better than what I used.
I made an outer lining and an inside lining. This way, if any of the lining happens to peek through the crochet part, it will still be pretty. So, for my lining, I cut (4) side panels from fabric, (2) bottom pieces from fabric, (2) side panels from quilt batting, (1) bottom piece from quilt batting, and (1) bottom piece from stiff iron on interfacing.
To determine the size of my side panels, I laid my purse flat and measured from the top to the bottom of round 4, from side to side at the bottom of round 4, and side to side at the top. My purse was slightly narrower at the top, so I cut my side panels at a slight angle on each side. Don’t forget to add a seam allowance, I chose to do a 1/2″ seam allowance.
To determine the size of the bottom pieces, I measured the length and width of the base. Round 3 is the last row of the base of the purse. I cut a rectangle to those dimensions, then free handed the rounded part. To get everything as symmetrical as possible, I folded my rectangle in half short ways, then in half long ways, and then cut all four corners at once. I also found that it worked best if the base was cut a bit shorter than actual size, maybe an inch total. Again, don’t forget the seam allowances.
I cut the quilt batting and the interfacing without seam allowances.
I sewed the quilt batting to what would be the outermost layer of lining. On the side panels, I sewed all around the outside edges, then sewed a big x through the center from corner to corner. On the base, I sewed around the edge, then sewed a straight line down the center.
I applied the interfacing to what would be the innermost layer of lining. I sewed a straight line down through the center of this also. The sewn line on the base partly helps with holding everything in place, and partly helps with lining up the side pieces with the base piece.
I sewed my side seams, then sewed my base in, leaving a hole for turning in the innermost layer of lining.
I then sewed my two liners, right sides together, at the top. My handles were a sew-in style, so there were sewn in-between the two layers of lining. Turn everything, sew the turning hole shut. I sewed a short line over the bottom of the handles to help hold them in place.  Hopefully the picture will help explain that.

I sewed a top stitch seam around the top of the liner, then placed it inside my purse and hand stitched it into place.
I have a lot of jewelry odds and ends in my craft stash, so I dug through that until I found the brooch to decorate my purse. I simply pinned it in place.

You may not reproduce or copy my pattern or images in any way. You may link to my pattern from another site. You may sell items made from my pattern as long as you give me credit.